Hongdae Seoul restaurant for fat-skimmed gomtang and naengmyeon: Anok
Anok is a Korean restaurant set in a hanok up a flight of alley stairs near Hongik University Station in Mapo, Seoul. The writer ordered Pyongyang naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles in chilled broth), clear gomtang (beef bone soup) and spicy-sweet braised pork tail: even as a first-time naengmyeon eater, the mild broth carried a gentle meaty depth, and the gomtang — described on the table ordering screen as skimmed of fat for 48 hours — tasted clean rather than greasy. For two people, one main dish plus the braised pork tail and a bowl of rice is the combination that works.