Seolleung izakaya before the 6pm rush: mackerel sushi at Sakai
Sakai is a Japanese izakaya a short walk from Exit 1 of Seolleung Station in Gangnam, Seoul, serving made-to-order (okonomi) sushi alongside small cooked dishes. Arriving at Sakai before 6pm meant a table for a sashimi platter (sashimi moriawase) at 34,000 won, sesseri sweet-and-sour chicken neck at 18,000 won and mackerel sushi, with slices thick enough to fold in half and rice seasoned and pressed just right. The large dining room filled to every seat right after 6pm, so coming early is the smart move.