Weekday-evening Seoul pub near Hyehwa Station: yuzu soju, gopchang
Hyehwahwa is a straw-fire Korean pub on the second floor of a building in the alley off Hyehwa Station Exit 4 in Jongno, Seoul. At 5:30pm on a weekday, a floor-to-ceiling window seat was free right away, and the table filled up with spicy gopchang jjaglagi (fire-grilled intestine stew), chilled beef tartare with aged kimchi egg gimbap (seaweed rice roll), beer and yuzu soju. With plenty of whole gopchang and glass noodles in the stew, Hyehwahwa works as both dinner and a drinking spot.

