Rice-straw smoked mackerel lunch omakase in Gongdeok: Jeulgeoun
Jeulgeoun Maeumeuro is a mid-range sushi and sashimi omakase restaurant tucked behind Gongdeok Station in Mapo, Seoul. For an anniversary lunch, the writer and her partner worked through a 19-course sushi omakase, from zucchini kongguksu and halibut topped with monkfish liver to rice-straw smoked mackerel and kinmedai with barivari gim. The same fish kept reappearing smoked, seared, or cured in different ways, making for a fun, never-heavy meal.

