Rainy-day gopchang restaurant in Bangi-dong, Seoul: Jinseong Hanwoo
Jinseong Hanwoo Gopchang Bangi Direct Branch is a Korean beef offal restaurant in Bangi-dong, Songpa, Seoul, serving just three cuts: gopchang, daechang and makchang. On a rainy-day revisit the writer had beef gopchang for two plus kkakdugi yangbap (rice stir-fried with radish kimchi); the kitchen pre-cooks the offal, sets a timer, and staff flip it at the table, while the minari-pickled garlic sauce (mijeolma) cuts the richness. After a first visit last winter, Jinseong Hanwoo Gopchang remains the writer's top-tier gopchang pick in Seoul.

