Magok Japanese restaurant, bluefin tsukedon and kaisendon split: Ilpum

While looking for a good kaisendon place in Magok, I ended up at Ilpum Magok.

Beyond the fresh seafood, what impressed me about Ilpum Magok was how the meal flows like a course, from chawanmushi (Japanese steamed egg custard) all the way to dessert.

Ilpum Magok location and opening hours

• Location: 228 Gonghang-daero, Unit 112, Gangseo-gu, Seoul
• Hours: Tue–Sun 11:00–21:30
• Break time: 15:00–17:30
• Closed every Monday

Getting to Ilpum Magok from Balsan Station

Ilpum Magok is near Exit 8 of Balsan Station (발산역), right next to Paik's Coffee. That day my friend came from Magongnaru Station (마곡나루역) and I came from Balsan Station. Maybe because the airport is close, I saw lots of foreigners from the ticket gates onward, which made me feel like I was on a trip.

I got distracted heading for Exit 8 and walked straight into the basement level of Ewha Womans University Mokdong Hospital. Once I got outside, Exit 8 was somewhere else entirely. Lesson learned: don't get distracted when you're finding your way.

My friend arrived first and sent me a photo of the shop, and the Paik's Coffee next door made it easy to find. The wood-toned exterior felt upscale without being over the top, just like a proper Japanese restaurant.

Should you reserve at Ilpum Magok?

I hear Ilpum Magok gets busy at peak lunch hours, so reserving seems easier. We booked through Naver and walked in with no wait, and there was a Catch Table device at the entrance too.

We came after 1pm and guests were still coming in, from couples to families. Since lunch hour had passed, there seemed to be more regular visitors than office workers.

What we ordered: kaisendon and Hon-maguro tsukedon

• Kaisendon
• Hon-maguro tsukedon

I originally wanted to try the shime saba bo sushi (vinegar-cured mackerel stick sushi), but the mackerel was sold out. Leaving my disappointment behind, I ordered the Hon-maguro tsukedon instead. The mackerel stick sushi will have to wait for next time. We sat at the bar seats (dacchi seats).

At the bar seats at Ilpum Magok, the staff place the food and side dishes on the bar, and you move them to your spot yourself.

Chawanmushi and sides come out first

At Ilpum Magok, the clear soup, aged kimchi and chawanmushi came out first.

The chawanmushi had gamtae (kelp-like seaweed) and shrimp in it, with a lovely savory depth. The soft, silky texture of Japanese egg custard made it a perfect appetizer.

Seaweed sheets came soon after. Apparently kaisendon is even better wrapped in seaweed.

Cold udon and karaage on the side

We didn't wait long before the kaisendon and Hon-maguro tsukedon arrived. The cold udon served alongside made the table even more generous.

It had been a while since I'd had cold udon. The noodles were chewy and went nicely with the crispy karaage (Japanese fried chicken).

What seafood goes on the Ilpum Magok kaisendon?

The kaisendon my friend ordered looked generous just at a glance.

It was piled with salmon, tuna, flounder, raw shrimp, flying fish roe and more.

We split everything in half, so we could taste lots of things. What I remembered most was the ankimo (monkfish liver), rich and creamy with a deep nutty flavor.

The flounder was springy and chewy, and the aged salmon melted in my mouth.

The minced fish had the rich savoriness of tuna, and my friend thought there was crab meat mixed in. Getting so many textures in one bite was satisfying.

How is Hon-maguro tsukedon different from a regular tuna bowl?

The Hon-maguro tsukedon I ordered is apparently the number one reorder among foreign guests at Ilpum Magok.

The aged tsuke marinade had soaked well into the tuna, giving it a much deeper flavor than an ordinary tuna rice bowl.

Above all, the rice was really good. It was great wrapped in gamtae, great wrapped in aged kimchi, and great wrapped in seaweed.

Each way of eating it had a slightly different charm, so I happily finished every bite.

A perfect finish: mango panna cotta

After the meal, Ilpum Magok brought out mango panna cotta for dessert.

One bite had a nutty flavor like sweet pumpkin purée, so I asked if it was sweet pumpkin. The answer was mango.

The surprising taste startled me for a moment, but it was soft and sweet, great for cleansing the palate. From the chawanmushi appetizer to the mains, cold udon and mango panna cotta, I was really happy with the whole lineup.

Ilpum Magok atmosphere and seating: good for a date?

The wood-toned interior of Ilpum Magok felt upscale without being excessive, and the calm lighting made it comfortable to eat.

The bar seats are good for a date, and the table seats looked well suited to family gatherings or wedding invitation meetups where you just want to chat casually.

Fresh seafood, a tidy lineup and a great atmosphere: I was happy with all of it at Ilpum Magok, a Magok kaisendon spot. Whether it's a special day or just a day you want good Japanese food, I'd go back.