Jonggak Korean BBQ with friends by the window: Gogikkun Kim Chunbae

Where is Jonggak-ap Nosang Gongyeong Juchajang (고기꾼김춘배 종로직영점)?

Jonggak-ap Nosang Gongyeong Juchajang is a Jonggak BBQ restaurant on the 5th floor of 17 Samil-daero 17-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul. After a long-overdue day out in Jongno with friends, we picked this place, famous for its meat quality, as our final stop.

Jongno is lively and packed with food whenever you go, but that also means there are so many restaurants that choosing one is hard. The anticipation started building the moment we rode the elevator up to the 5th floor.

What are the atmosphere and seats like?

With warm wood-toned interiors and soft amber lighting, the place felt both upscale and comfortable, and the ventilation was so good there was no worry about smelling of smoke afterward. Tables were nicely spaced, and from the window seats you can catch a glimpse of downtown Jongno.

The moment the doors opened on the 5th floor, I could tell this was a different world from the noisy, greasy atmosphere of a typical BBQ joint. It felt like a private hideout, and it was great for conversation. I thought it would suit a date, a formal company dinner or a family gathering just as well. The ventilation, the biggest concern at any BBQ place, was handled perfectly, so we could start our meal in comfort.

What comes in the recommended set?

The recommended set is 150g hanwoo (Korean beef), 200g pork neck and 150g pork belly, so you get the tenderness of beef and the richness of pork together. We ordered this set, which you could call the signature.

When the meat hit the table, all of us had to reach for our cameras. The bright red hanwoo with its clear marbling looked like a work of art, and the thickly cut pork neck and pork belly were freshness itself. Yellow corn, shiitake with visible texture, big king oyster mushrooms, beech mushrooms and fresh broccoli came alongside, so even the colors were perfectly matched.

In particular, the "Gogikkun Kim Chunbae" brand finely stamped onto the surface of the king oyster mushroom showed how seriously this restaurant takes its meat.

How do the charcoal-grilled hanwoo, pork neck and pork belly taste?

Hanwoo, first bite with just salt

On the charcoal, the hanwoo's surface cooked quickly and locked in the juices, so it melted along the grain with just a dip in salt. We started grilling with the hanwoo.

When I laid the bright red hanwoo on the powerful charcoal, it gave a cheerful sizzle and a savory aroma filled the table in no time. I took the first bite with no sauce, just a light dip in salt, and the texture, falling apart and melting along the grain the moment it hit my mouth, was fantastic. The deeply savory juices bursting out with every chew were emotional, honestly.

Thick pork neck with meljeot, chewy pork belly

The pork neck was thick like a steak yet moist inside, and dipping it in meljeot (salted anchovy sauce) boiled on the grill gave it deep flavor. The chewy skin of the pork belly was excellent.

Pork neck is often dismissed as dry, but the one here was surprisingly moist. I boiled the meljeot sauce that came with it until it bubbled on the grill and dipped generously, and the flavor felt deeper than what I've had in Jeju itself. The pork belly got more savory the more I chewed, and even wrapped in lettuce with plenty of pajeori (seasoned scallion salad), it held its own without getting lost. The sweetness of the grilled corn and the fragrance of the mushrooms were perfect supporting actors that made the meat taste even more varied.

Meal menu: kkakdugi fried rice and half-and-half naengmyeon

Kkakdugi fried rice, scraped down to the nurungji

The kkakdugi fried rice (with diced radish kimchi) arrives piled on a wide iron plate, with finely chopped kkakdugi giving it a crunchy bite. We were already full of meat, but as Koreans we could never just skip it.

The look alone was overwhelming, and the mildly spicy flavor blended nicely with the savory, oily richness. I scraped up even the nurungji (crispy scorched rice) stuck to the bottom, and an "ah, that was a great meal" came out on its own.

Half-and-half naengmyeon, no need to choose

The half-and-half naengmyeon lets you have both mul naengmyeon (cold broth noodles) and bibim naengmyeon (spicy mixed noodles) at once, so it was a perfect final palate cleanser. It's a clever dish that ends the agony of choosing between the two.

The mul naengmyeon broth, packed with slushy ice, cooled me down to the chest and wiped away the meat's greasiness in one go, and the bibim naengmyeon had an addictively spicy special sauce. And you all know how good it is to roll a leftover piece of pork into the noodles, right? I felt ready to burst, but this was too good to leave even one last strand. That's why everyone calls it a Jonggak must-eat, I guess.

Who is Jonggak-ap Nosang Gongyeong Juchajang best for?

I felt this Jongno BBQ restaurant suits drinks with friends, dates with a partner and treating your parents. The attentive, friendly staff, all the way to the door as we left, kept a good feeling lingering for a long time.

I strongly felt this is a place that tries to give guests a special dining experience, beyond just selling tasty food. Fresh ingredients are a given, and the plating and the harmony of flavors lacked nothing. It's rare to find meat this neat and high-quality in busy Jongno. I'm already planning to come back with my family soon.

If you want to experience the peak of BBQ near Jongno, don't hesitate to head to Gogikkun Kim Chunbae (the restaurant's Korean name). With its neat table spread, top-grade meat and perfect side dishes, I strongly recommend it for an unforgettable dinner!