Between Pages Reader · 13 stories

Between Pages, Seoul

Writes about Seoul's neighborhood restaurants, cafes, and the bookshops she keeps returning to. · Writes about: Restaurants · Books & stationery · Cafés

PlaceYongsan, SeoulRestaurants

Yongmun Market octopus grill: cheese octopus & glass noodles, Jjigaen

Jjigaen Jjukkumi Yongmun Market Branch (찌갠쭈꾸미 용산용문시장점) is a griddle-grilled spicy octopus restaurant in a Yongmun Market alley in Yongsan, Seoul, near Hyochang Park Station. At Jjigaen Jjukkumi we ordered cheese octopus with extra Chinese glass noodles, plus flying fish roe rice balls the owner makes by hand. The rich, spicy sauce won over even a friend who can't handle heat, and many tables were drinking despite it being daytime, so the restaurant was nearly full by the time we left. For a meal and daytime drinks in Yongmun Market, Jjigaen Jjukkumi's cheese octopus with glass noodles is a safe choice.

Written Jun 8, 2026Sponsored
PlaceMapo, SeoulRestaurants

Sangam shabu kalguksu lunch with an on-screen eating guide: Deungchon

Deungchon Shabu Kalguksu Sangam Branch (등촌샤브칼국수 상암점) is a shabu kalguksu (shabu-shabu followed by knife-cut noodles) restaurant on the 2nd floor of the Woori Technology building in Sangam-dong, Mapo, Seoul. For lunch, the writer had minari (water dropwort) shabu-shabu in spicy broth with a side of minari pancake. Then, following the eating guide on the table screen, the meal continued like a course into kalguksu noodles and fried rice. For a filling, low-risk lunch in Sangam-dong, Deungchon Shabu Kalguksu Sangam Branch is an easy recommendation.

Written Jun 13, 2026Sponsored
PlaceMapo, SeoulCafés

Lit terrace café in Yeonnam-dong, Shelter Einspänner: Butter & Shelter

Butter & Shelter Yeonnam (버터앤쉘터 연남점) is a European-style dessert café specializing in butter sands, tucked into an alley in Yeonnam-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul. The writer sat on the outdoor terrace with a Butter Einspänner, a Shelter Einspänner and a Matilda cake, and loved how the rich, heavy cream of the Einspänners paired with the dense, fudgy chocolate cake. With its softly lit evening terrace and butter sand gift boxes, Butter & Shelter Yeonnam is a café worth recommending for a date in Yeonnam-dong.

Written Jun 14, 2026Sponsored
PlaceYongsan, SeoulRestaurants

Sinyongsan pork gomtang restaurant: orange tiles, crispy jeon, Baekok

Baekok Yongsan (백옥 용산) is a pork gomtang (slow-simmered meat soup) restaurant on Hangang-daero 10-gil near Sinyongsan Station in Yongsan, Seoul. In a clean dining room with orange tile walls and an open kitchen, the writer ate clear, mild gomtang, golden pan-fried jeon (savory pancakes), kkakdugi (radish kimchi) and jangajji (pickled vegetables). Baekok Yongsan suits anyone craving a brothy Korean meal without the rough feel of an old-school gukbap (soup and rice) house.

Written Jun 13, 2026Sponsored
PlaceMapo, SeoulRestaurants

Yeonnam-dong pasta spot, carrot & duck aglio e olio: Hôtel de Couture

Hôtel de Couture (오뗄드꾸뜨) is a Western-style restaurant with a cozy atmosphere on a side street from Hongik Univ. Station toward Yeonnam-dong in Mapo, Seoul. At a window seat in the orange-walled dining room filled with vintage decor, two diners shared a carrot duck aglio e olio and a honey thick-cut bacon rosé pasta, and the natural light made the food photos come out beautifully. Sharing one light oil pasta and one rich rosé pasta made Hôtel de Couture a well-matched Yeonnam-dong date meal.

Written Jun 14, 2026Sponsored
PlaceYongsan, SeoulRestaurants

Hannam-dong burger restaurant with spicy pickles: Downtown Burger

Downtown Burger Hannam is a handmade burger restaurant tucked into an alley in Hannam-dong, Yongsan, Seoul, and the Seoul branch of Downtown Burger, a brand that started on Jeju Island. On a sweltering summer day, the writer ate 2 Downtown Burger sets at Downtown Burger Hannam with original and spicy pickles from the self-serve bar and loved the balance of bacon, patty, tomato and onion, as well as the cool interior. Verdict: after trying other menu items you end up back at the classic Downtown Burger, which makes Downtown Burger Hannam a safe pick even on a first visit.

Written Jun 21, 2026Sponsored
PlaceYongsan, SeoulRestaurants

Army stew and sizzling steak in Yongsan: Yongsan International Hall

Yongsan International Hall (용산국제회관) is a Korean restaurant specializing in budae-jjigae (army stew) on Cheongpa-ro 20-gil near Yongsan Station in Seoul. At dinner, the budae-jjigae came with a sizzling mixed steak plate, and the salty, rich broth paired well with the buttery griddled meat, while rice and ramen noodles were free to take from the self-serve bar. Yongsan International Hall is a casual hall-style eatery near Yongsan Station, good for a filling lunch or a light evening drink.

Written Jun 25, 2026Sponsored
PlaceYongsan, SeoulRestaurants

Ramen for two on a hot day in Yongsan: cold prawn & chashu, Menya

Menya Seoul Yongsan I'Park Mall Branch is a ramen restaurant in the 7th-floor food court of the Living Park building at Yongsan I'Park Mall in Yongsan, Seoul. On a hot day, two diners shared a cold jumbo prawn ramen set (with a mini sweet soy chicken rice bowl) and a hot chashu ramen, and the refreshing and savory flavors never overlapped. For two people at Menya Seoul, one cold ramen set plus one chashu ramen is a satisfying combination.

Written Jun 25, 2026Sponsored
ProductRobeoteu D. kapeulran jeoBooks & stationery

Geopolitics book linking war and great-power rivalry: The End of Order

The End of Order (질서의 종말) is a new social science book in which geopolitical thinker Robert D. Kaplan explains the chaos and disorder of today's world through a geopolitical lens. The reviewer worried the title sounded heavy, but read The End of Order to the last page, drawn in by its view that the US-China rivalry, the war in Ukraine, conflicts in the Middle East and the climate crisis are all connected. The End of Order is not a comforting read, but it is a worthwhile one for anyone who wants to understand current world affairs as a structure rather than a string of headlines.

Written Jun 30, 2026Product provided
PlaceMapo, SeoulRestaurants

Hongdae Korean BBQ ending with pork-topped naengmyeon: Chopilsal

Chopilsal Pork Grill Hongdae Branch is a Korean BBQ restaurant near Hongik Univ. Station in Mapo, Seoul, where diners grill pork belly and dwitgogi (pork cheek and neck trimmings) on round grill plates. At dinner, the writer ordered pork belly, dwitgogi, cheese steamed egg and naengmyeon (cold noodles), and switching between the thick pork belly and the chewy dwitgogi kept the meal from getting heavy. Saving a piece or two of pork to lay on the naengmyeon gives a meal at Chopilsal Pork Grill Hongdae Branch a clean finish.

Written Jul 24, 2026Sponsored
PlaceYeongdeungpo, SeoulRestaurants

Yeongdeungpo gamjatang restaurant with cheongyang chili kick: Dangsan

Dangsan Ppyeodaegwi Haejangguk is a gamjatang (pork bone stew) and bone soup restaurant on Seonyu-dong 1-ro in Yeongdeungpo, Seoul, near Yeongdeungpo-gu Office. Two people shared a small gamjatang (27,000 won) and stirred in the chopped cheongyang chili served on the side for extra heat. The portion was so generous that they never touched the free rice. Dangsan Ppyeodaegwi Haejangguk is a good neighborhood pick for two people who want a hearty gamjatang in Yeongdeungpo for under 30,000 won.

Written Jul 27, 2026Sponsored
PlaceAnseong, GyeonggiCafés

Anseong bakery café: 80+ breads and pet-friendly terrace, Chat Baker

Chat Baker Brunch & Bakery Café (챗 베이커) is a large two-floor bakery and brunch café in Gongdo-eup, Anseong, Gyeonggi, about 5 minutes by car from Anseong Farm Land and Starfield Anseong. At Chat Baker, the writer browsed a bread display of around 80 kinds, shared several breads, and explored the jazz LP and audio space and the outdoor terrace where pets are allowed. Chat Baker is a large Anseong café that suits anyone looking for both bread variety and plenty of space.

Written Sep 25, 2026Sponsored