Seochon hanok BBQ: hanwoo ribs with poached egg & ponzu, Gukbinkwan

This is a place I kept thinking about after our Gyeongbokgung outing, so I went back again.

Hanwoo near Gyeongbokgung: why Tonguidong Gukbinkwan?

Tonguidong Gukbinkwan (통의동 국빈관) is the hanwoo (Korean beef) restaurant that comes to mind without a second thought when I want a proper beef meal near Gyeongbokgung. I've never once been disappointed, no matter how many times I've visited, so it's saved in my head as my "can't-fail, go-to spot." Today again, I headed over without any hesitation.

Inside Tonguidong Gukbinkwan's hanok dining room

Gukbinkwan is a hanok BBQ restaurant set deep inside an alley. The moment you walk in, the wooden pillars, exposed rafters and soft lighting give it a distinctly upscale feel.

It's not a noisy, rowdy BBQ joint. It feels like being served with care, so I thought it would be perfect for family gatherings, meetings between in-laws-to-be, or hosting guests.

Just like the name ("gukbin" means state guest), you really feel treated like a VIP. That's exactly it.

What cuts come in the 1++ hanwoo short rib platter?

The star of the day was Gukbinkwan's premium hanwoo short rib assortment (특상한우짝갈비 모둠). It's a platter of specialty cuts: flower rib meat, rib finger meat, rib brisket and inside skirt. It's 1++ grade hanwoo, so the color of the meat was just crazy good.

As soon as the meat arrives, the marbling makes you gasp. You can see with your own eyes that the quality is different, and once it's grilled and you pop a piece in your mouth, it chews tenderly and the rich, nutty juices spread out.

Since you get to taste several cuts at once, it's fun comparing the different textures and flavors of each. The side dishes that come with it were all clean and neat too, supporting the beef without overpowering it.

My favorite was the cut they grilled last. I can't remember its name, but it melted in my mouth with fat just streaming out. I nearly fainted.

Hanwoo ribs with poached egg and ponzu sauce

Gukbinkwan's poached egg and ponzu sauce combination is just a dream. Honestly, even hanwoo can get tiring after a few bites, but eating it with this combo kept it delicious right to the end.

After the ribs: hanwoo brisket bibim makguksu

The menu you have to order after eating meat at Gukbinkwan! Hanwoo brisket bibim makguksu (spicy mixed buckwheat noodles). The sweet-and-sour seasoning, chewy noodles and the hanwoo brisket on top are the highlights.

After the meat, it refreshes your palate, yet thanks to the brisket it still finishes hearty and filling. It also goes really well wrapped up together with the meat.

What to order next time at Tonguidong Gukbinkwan

The menu is solid, so every time I visit there's something new I want to try.

Next time I'm definitely trying the briquette-grilled marinated beef short ribs and yukhoe (beef tartare), and to finish, either sagol tteokguk (bone broth rice cake soup) or galbi bokkeumbap (rib fried rice). On a special occasion I'd also like to take on the 1++ hanwoo T-bone.

Verdict: a reliable hanwoo stop after Gyeongbokgung and Seochon

The hanok atmosphere is upscale, the food is clean and neat, and the meat quality is clearly good. With all three in place, Gukbinkwan is somewhere I can confidently recommend to anyone I bring. If you're planning a Gyeongbokgung or Seochon outing, be sure to stop by!

Tonguidong Gukbinkwan location, hours and parking

• Address: 17-4 Jahamun-ro 2-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul (1st floor)
• About 2 minutes on foot from Exit 3 of Gyeongbokgung Station
• Hours: 11:30–22:00 (break time 15:00–17:00)
• Parking: no dedicated parking; Hannuri Building paid lot or Sejongno public parking lot recommended
• Naver Reservation available