Solo Korean meal in Banwoldang, Daegu: non-fishy mackerel at Hyangtaek

I'm so sensitive to fishy smells that I almost never order fish when eating out. But everyone kept saying this place was famous, so I couldn't just walk past the mackerel gondre rice (gondre is a Korean thistle herb) at Hyangtaek Daegu Jongno Branch (향택 대구종로점)! My first thought after one bite: huh... I actually like fish...? If you're looking for a meal in Jongno, Daegu, this is a place I truly wanted to share.

Hyangtaek Daegu Jongno Branch: location, hours and parking

Hyangtaek Daegu Jongno Branch is at 19 Jungang-daero 77-gil, Jung-gu, Daegu, on the first floor, and it's open daily 11:00–20:00. Break time is 15:30–17:00, and last orders are at 15:00 and 19:30.

• Address: 19 Jungang-daero 77-gil, Jung-gu, Daegu (1st floor)
• Hours: daily 11:00–20:00
• Break time: 15:30–17:00
• Last order: 15:00, 19:30
• Parking: no private lot; use a nearby paid car park
• Reservations: reservations and takeout available

Please double-check the hours and days off before you go.

Hyangtaek in Jongno, Daegu: exterior and atmosphere

I was hunting for a place near Banwoldang and arrived at Hyangtaek Daegu Jongno Branch! The calm exterior blends in nicely with the alley, and it caught my eye right away. Even before going in, I was pretty excited about the menu, because fish is a bit of an adventure for me haha

Is the inside comfortable for eating alone?

The interior is neat and wood-toned, and the tables aren't cramped. Light comes in by the windows, so it felt relaxing to eat alone. It suits you when you want to take your time over a meal rather than sit in a busy, noisy restaurant.

The doors, walls and little props all fit together nicely. It isn't over-decorated, yet it has a quietly stylish feel... ♥

Hyangtaek menu, what I ordered and prices

Even the menu on the table fits the name Hyangtaek perfectly!

I'd already almost decided what to eat before visiting. The famous mackerel gondre rice? No way I'm skipping that.

My order was mackerel gondre rice ₩14,000, a galbi plate ₩10,000 and a Coke Zero ₩2,000, ₩26,000 in total.

I added the galbi plate in case I got tired of eating only fish. As it turned out, I picked a great combination. Pat on the back for me...

How to eat Hyangtaek's mackerel gondre rice

Before the food arrived, seasoned gopchang-gim (crispy seaweed) and the special sauce were set on the table. The Coke Zero showed up first too!

The spoons and chopsticks were neatly set at the inner side of the table.

The table also had a guide on how to enjoy the mackerel gondre rice. According to the notice, the order goes like this.

• First, break the mackerel into small pieces and mix it evenly with the gondre rice
• Before adding the special sauce, taste the ingredients as they are
• Eat it with the gopchang-gim and bibim jeotgal (seasoned salted seafood)
• At the end, add the special sauce little by little, depending on how much rice is left

Adding all the sauce at once can make it too strong, so the key is to add it bit by bit. They also say that even though the mackerel is prepared by hand, a few bones can remain, so eat slowly and check as you go! Coke Zero was ready to cleanse my palate in between haha

The bibim jeotgal and side dishes came out neatly first. And then the gopchang-gim, which completely won me over! I didn't know it yet, but that seaweed would keep calling for more rice...

The special sauce comes separately too, so you can adjust the amount to your taste.

Does Hyangtaek's mackerel gondre rice smell fishy?

The mackerel gondre rice at Hyangtaek Daegu Jongno Branch comes with a big piece of mackerel sitting whole on top of the gondre rice. Being sensitive to fish smell, I checked the aroma first. The toasty, savory grilled scent came before the fishiness I'd feared, so I started with a bit of relief.

I carefully broke up the mackerel with my chopsticks. The flesh was white and thick, so it looked tempting even before mixing it with the rice!

I picked out the big bones first and split the mackerel into small pieces. A few small bones can remain, so do this part carefully. Following the guide, I mixed the gondre rice and mackerel evenly.

At first I skipped the sauce and tried the ingredients as they were! It surprised even me that I, someone sensitive to fish, ate it without any trouble to the very end.

Once the mackerel and gondre mixed, it tasted mild yet savory, and the soft fish flesh was chewed along with the rice grains.

I can't remember the last time I ate a fish rice dish without worrying about the smell... Having tried it, I immediately understood why the mackerel gondre rice is famous. There's a reason to come looking for this restaurant in Jongno, Daegu!

Special sauce with gopchang-gim and bibim jeotgal

After enjoying the rice's own flavor, I added a little special sauce. Not a big dump at the start, just a bit at a time with a spoon!

With the sauce, the savory depth got much clearer. Starting mild and then shifting to a richer taste made it fun even within a single bowl.

But the real highlight was the gopchang-gim and bibim jeotgal combo! Put rice on the crispy seaweed, add a little bibim jeotgal on top, and wow... this is a rice thief (a dish so good you keep eating rice).

The salty, savory jeotgal went so well with the mackerel gondre rice. After my first wrap, my hand kept going back to the seaweed. I barely managed to calm the urge to ask for a seaweed refill hahaha

Galbi plate to go with the mackerel gondre rice

The galbi plate (₩10,000) I ordered as a side also came in bite-sized pieces. If fish rice alone feels like not enough, or you want some meat too, it's a good thing to order together!

When I put a piece of galbi on top of the mackerel gondre rice, the salty soy-based seasoning added another layer. You can alternate between the mild fish and the meat, and the pairing was better than I expected.

In between, I ate it with the side dishes to reset my palate!

Seeing the mackerel gondre rice, galbi plate and Coke Zero together as one spread, it was quite filling for one person. I was full but couldn't put my spoon down...? In the end I cleaned everything up. For me, someone who can't really eat fish when out, it was a truly memorable meal.

Is Hyangtaek Daegu Jongno Branch okay for a woman eating alone? (SOLO CHECK)

I checked Hyangtaek Daegu Jongno Branch myself from the point of view of a woman travelling solo.

• Going alone ★★★★★
• Transport ★★★★★
• Photos ★★★★☆
• Getting around at night ★★★★☆
• Solo dining ★★★★★
• Waiting ★★★★☆

These are regular tables rather than a bar counter, but the calm atmosphere makes eating alone low-pressure, and it's fairly close to Jungangno Station, so it's an easy stop while travelling. However, there's no private parking lot, so if you're driving, check for a nearby paid car park.

Honest overall review

Being sensitive to fish smell, I visited a little worried even though everyone said it was famous. Hyangtaek's mackerel gondre rice made me forget that worry. Taste the plain flavor first, add savory depth with the special sauce, and finish with gopchang-gim and bibim jeotgal! The taste changes depending on how you eat it, so I never got tired of it. With the galbi plate it was plenty for a hearty meal. For me, it's a place I'd carefully call the best fish restaurant of my life ♥