Gangnam dessert café, pâtissier-picked canelé: Upper and Under

How I ended up at Upper and Under, a Gangnam Station café

I went to Upper and Under while looking for a café near Gangnam Station with my younger sister. We hadn't planned on it at all. It just caught my eye as we walked, so we went right in! haha

Upper and Under uses the whole building from the basement up to the 2nd floor, so I was surprised at how spacious it was when we first walked in.

Upper and Under interior: a big indoor tree is the highlight

A big tree stands as the centerpiece inside the building, so even though you're indoors it feels cool and fresh.

The ceilings are high and the windows go floor to ceiling, so it feels open and was easy to take photos in. Every seat has a slightly different mood, so picking where to sit is half the fun at this Gangnam Station café! The layout is really unusual: 1F and 2F are divided around the tree.

The chairs set out as an outdoor photo spot

The 1st floor has some shade, so it feels cool. It seemed quiet and I thought about sitting there, but ordering happens on the 2nd floor anyway, so up we went!

Where to sit at Upper and Under

Upper and Under also has terrace seats, so on a nice day sitting outside would be lovely. The inner seats are on the quiet side and the window seats are good for people-watching, so just pick what suits you.

It was a weekday and still quite busy, but the space is big enough that it never felt stuffy. If the weather is mild, the spot is great for sitting outside!

The pâtissier's recommendation: canelé

I was still deciding what dessert to get when the pâtissier happened to come out to restock the display. I asked what was good, and they said everything is delicious but I must try the canelé (a small French caramelized custard cake), so of course I picked one up.

The dessert display is long, so browsing with your eyes and choosing is quite fun. The staff explained things kindly too, so even first-timers shouldn't get lost choosing. I was tempted by the tiramisu too!!

There are tasty-looking cakes too

Ordering and restrooms are on the 2nd floor

The 2nd floor has both the restrooms and the counter! You order on the 2nd floor, and the 1st floor is just for customers to enjoy their seats!

Canelé, madeleines, financiers: lots of finger desserts

Since the canelé was supposed to be great, I agonized over which one! There were so many finger desserts like canelés, madeleines and financiers (small buttery almond cakes) that there was really a lot to choose from.

They're bite-size, so they're perfect for tasting a little of each and sharing a bunch. They go easily with coffee, so you end up grabbing one of everything lol

The chodang corn pie (sweet corn pie) was so cute, like a toy, that I almost got it, but the chocolate one in front tempted me more, so chocolate it was!

How's the coffee at Upper and Under? A nutty latte

Upper and Under's signature cream latte

The coffee here leans nutty, so even people who find acidity too sharp should be able to drink it comfortably.

Paired with sweet desserts, it felt nicely balanced. Latte lovers! Coffee lovers! I'd recommend Upper and Under's iced latte to you!

How the canelé and choco cream pie taste

Upper and Under's canelé is crisp outside and moist inside, so the Korean phrase "geotbasokchok" (crispy outside, moist inside) fits perfectly! The chocolate cream pie I picked with it had rich, sweet cream, and I kept reaching for more.

Upper and Under parking, hours and how to get there

The building has no dedicated parking lot, so if you drive, use a nearby paid lot. The alleys are narrow, so public transport seems easiest.

• Hours: Daily 11:00 AM – 10:00 PM
• Parking: Not available; use paid parking nearby
• Address: 28 Gangnam-daero 102-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

The space is big and the desserts are varied, so this is a place I'll think of again when looking for a café near Gangnam Station. We left saying we'd come back again, my sister and I lol