Jeongdong-gil kalguksu restaurant: Sunday sampler set at Tanbaek

Tanbaek, our stop after a walk down Jeongdong-gil by Deoksugung

Last Sunday I walked along the Deoksugung stone wall path down Jeongdong-gil and stopped at Tanbaek (탄백). The weather has been so nice that I've become much more energetic. My weekend hobby used to be lazing around at home whenever I had no plans, but lately the good days keep pulling me outside. So out I went, heading toward Deoksugung.

Lush green trees line the Deoksugung stone wall path for a long stretch. With the sunshine and the shade of the trees, Jeongdong-gil is a street that feels good just to walk. (There are lots of great cafés on the right side of this street too!)

Where we ended up that day was Tanbaek, tucked among the trees along the Deoksugung stone wall path. With its old building and green surroundings, the exterior was already so atmospheric.

Tanbaek location and opening hours

• Address: 37 Jeongdong-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul
• About 471 m from Exit 12 of City Hall Station
• Hours: Mon–Sat 11:00–21:00, Sun 11:00–17:00
• Break time 15:00–17:00, last order 20:00
• Reservations available

What's Tanbaek like inside? Bar counter on 1F, Noguchi lamps on 2F

On the first floor, a long bar counter runs around the open kitchen, a comfortable setup for solo meals or dates.

We were led upstairs, and the pendant lamp lighting the staircase was just so pretty. Apparently it's a famous Isamu Noguchi lamp...

The second floor of Tanbaek blends brick with hanji (Korean paper) lamps, and the big windows show the green view of the Deoksugung stone wall path, which makes the mood even better.

There are plenty of seats packed in toward the back too. 32 seats in total.

Tanbaek menu and traditional liquor

The Tanbaek menu centers on Hanu (Korean beef), from gom kalguksu, yukgaejang kalguksu and bean bibim kalguksu to on-jeyuk, seasoned tripe salad and kimchi dumplings. There's a good range, from noodle dishes to sides that go well with a drink.

For drinks, Naru draft makgeolli (rice wine) and Ilyeop Pyeonju caught my eye. Naru draft makgeolli is known for a clean, soft sweetness, and Ilyeop Pyeonju is a traditional liquor brewed with rice and traditional nuruk (fermentation starter), with a subtle aroma and a deep finish, so my mouth was watering~~

What comes in the Tanbaek mixed set?

The Tanbaek mixed set we ordered comes with gom kalguksu, yukgaejang kalguksu, on-jeyuk and 2 kimchi dumplings. We added 2 glasses of Naru draft makgeolli.

• Mixed set (52.) — gom kalguksu + yukgaejang kalguksu + on-jeyuk + 2 kimchi dumplings
• 2 glasses of Naru draft makgeolli

Once you're seated, they bring kimchi and a kettle of barley tea. As you can see in the photo, it's a very nutty barley tea and really good.

Did we wait about 10 minutes? The table was all set. Quite a generous spread, right~

The spoons and chopsticks are shiny bangjja yugi (traditional brass tableware)✨ They have a faint golden glow that feels luxurious. It can't be easy to maintain, so you can sense the care and attention even in a single spoon.

What does Tanbaek's on-jeyuk (pork jowl suyuk) taste like?

Tanbaek's on-jeyuk is unusual: pork jowl (hangjeongsal) is gently boiled and cut into cubes, served with a yuja-sauce chamnamul salad, salted herring roe and wasabi. It's pork jowl rather than the usual pork belly, so I was totally curious about the taste!

The tenderly boiled pork jowl suyuk is chewy yet soft, with its nutty richness intact,

and with a little salted herring roe or wasabi on top, the savory depth really pops without any greasiness. Add the refreshing yuja-sauce chamnamul salad and the meat-and-greens combo feels pretty light too.

It's tasty draped over kimchi too^^

We had just one glass of makgeolli each. It's daytime~~

Tanbaek yukgaejang kalguksu, our top pick

Tanbaek's yukgaejang kalguksu is noodles in a clear Hanu beef broth, simmered with blanched bracken and green onion and topped with Hanu beef. It was our top pick from the mixed set that day.

You can feel the spiciness just by looking at this yukgaejang kalguksu! A fiery red broth sends up a sharp, spicy aroma, and one spoonful brings a deep, hefty Hanu beef flavor followed by a burst of heat.

Slurping up the chewy kalguksu noodles too warmed me up properly inside. Our top pick!

Tanbaek gom kalguksu: how does the clear broth taste?

Tanbaek's gom kalguksu is a clear, mild gomtang-style kalguksu: the noodles are warmed with Hanu broth (toryeom, ladled repeatedly), then topped with shank, brisket and beef plate. It's known as the Pyongyang naengmyeon of kalguksu, and it's Tanbaek's signature dish.

Thin red threads of chili (silgochu) sit on top of the toppings. I haven't seen a restaurant use silgochu in ages... another touch of care.

I was so curious about the broth, clear enough to see through, that I tried it first. It looks clear to the eyes but tastes deep in the mouth! The flavor is deep, but the oiliness and heaviness are gone. In a word, a taste anyone would like.

The noodles are also much chewier than ordinary kalguksu noodles. Enjoy the toppings as they are, and with kalguksu, kimchi is of course the answer!

Midway, stir in the daedagi (seasoned chili paste) from the table and the gom kalguksu gets a slightly spicy kick and tastes even better. We got to enjoy one bowl in two versions.

Tanbaek kimchi dumplings: size and taste of the handmade mandu

Tanbaek's kimchi dumplings are handmade mandu with big wrappers stuffed full of kimchi and filling. I love kimchi mandu so much I make them at home, so my expectations were pretty high, but from the first bite I thought, yep, these are really handmade.

They're spicy with a properly savory depth. It's not that the plate is small; the dumplings are really big.😋

Tanbaek mixed set, in summary

The clean, mild gom kalguksu and the spicy yukgaejang kalguksu each have a clear charm, and alternating between them was fun. Add the soft on-jeyuk and the set is the real deal. A glass of chilled Naru draft makgeolli on top made it a perfect match! If you're after a hearty yet special meal near Deoksugung, how about a visit to Tanbaek on Jeongdong-gil?