Magok Station sushi bar, Friday counter seats and platter sushi: Ilpum

Is there a wait at Ilpum Magok on a Friday evening?

When I got to Ilpum Magok (일품 마곡점) at 7 PM on Friday, it was already full and there was a short wait. This is my second visit. I rushed over straight from work, looking forward to a good dinner, and of course, as a hot spot, the place was packed.

There were a few groups ahead of me, so I had to wait a bit. But I remembered how good it was last time, so I could happily put up with that. I browsed the menu while waiting outside, and before I knew it, it was my turn.

What are the counter seats at Ilpum Magok like?

This time I was shown to the counter seats at the back of the restaurant. Sitting at the counter felt completely different.

I could watch the chefs right in front of me, preparing the fish with incredible focus and shaping each piece of sushi with care, so there was never a dull moment. Waiting for the food while watching the lively open kitchen, I actually liked it better than a table.

While studying the menu, I wanted to taste the signature dishes and the best of Magok sushi again, so I ordered the platter sushi set and the Ilpum whole-eel unagi don (eel rice bowl).

First up: clear soup and gamtae chawanmushi

After a short wait, the first things to arrive were a warm soup and chawanmushi (steamed egg custard) in a cute little bowl.

The custard, wobbly like pudding, was topped with green gamtae (a type of seaweed).

I scooped up a big spoonful and it melted in my mouth, with the gentle sea aroma of the gamtae spreading out. A perfect appetizer. I enjoyed it while watching the cooking beyond the counter, and then at last the mains arrived in all their glory.

How thick is the neta on the platter sushi at Ilpum Magok?

The platter sushi at Ilpum Magok came packed tightly on a round plate, and the look of it was overwhelming from the start.

The neta (the fish on top) was so big and thick that you could hardly see the rice. The thick-cut salmon was topped with something like fried scallion strands for texture, and the bright red lean tuna was the peak of tenderness.

The plump raw shrimp got sweeter the more I chewed, and the white squid sushi, finely scored, was topped with black roe, which gave it a luxurious look and a salty umami at the same time.

With every piece I found myself nodding, understanding why this place is famous for Magok Station sushi.

The huge futomaki (thick sushi roll) sitting to one side was packed with tuna, fluffy egg omelet and assorted vegetables, so full and rich it was a struggle to fit into one bite.

What does the Ilpum whole-eel unagi don look like?

The Ilpum whole-eel unagi don is an eel rice bowl with a whole eel lying on top of a deep wooden bowl. The next dish I tried was this one, which grabs everyone's attention.

A single giant eel, tail sticking out, sits whole on top of a round, deep wooden bowl. It's a magnificent sight.

Thinly shredded green onion is piled on top of the eel, and when you carefully lift the eel up,

underneath, along with the rice, are a very thick egg roll and shredded ginger hiding.

Cutting the eel with tongs and scissors

I snipped the eel into chunks with the tongs and scissors they provided, and I could feel the springy firmness of the eel meat right from the tip of the scissors. The tare sauce, sweet and deep in flavor, had soaked nicely into both the eel and the rice.

I put the seasoned rice on a spoon, added soft egg roll, a thick piece of eel and a dab of fresh wasabi, and ate it in one big bite. Honestly, the fatigue of the Friday just vanished. There were no small bones and no fishy taste at all. It was a textbook Magok eel rice bowl.

Tempura udon comes with donburi and sushi

At Ilpum Magok, if you order a rice bowl or sushi, you also get udon topped with big pieces of tempura. They brought it out just as I was lost in the main meal, and for something called a free side, the quality was far too good.

The warm broth had a strong katsuobushi (bonito flake) aroma, and the thick, chewy Sanuki-style noodles were great for slurping. I bit into the tempura, half-soaked in the broth for extra richness, and it was full inside, which made it hearty too.

Dessert: mango cream pudding

At the end of the meal came a dessert of mango on white cream pudding. I was sitting there with a satisfied smile, saying I was full, when the staff brought the dessert at just the right moment.

A clear bowl held a layer of white cream pudding covered with bright yellow mango.

I scooped deep with the spoon: the pudding was sweet, soft and milky, and the fresh mango sauce cleansed my mouth. It was the perfect palate cleanser, refreshing away the slightly heavy seafood and eel oil.

Would I go back to Ilpum Magok a third time?

Even on my second visit, Ilpum Magok satisfied me more than the first. The chefs cooking right in front of me, the fresh sushi that moved my taste buds, the eel rice bowl that melts in the mouth, and the clean dessert made me feel like I'd been served one perfect course meal.

Whenever I'm looking for good-quality Japanese food near Magok, or want a nice dinner with someone special, I'll go back to Ilpum Magok without a second thought.