Nokbeon sundaeguk restaurant with a 2-person set for a couple: Samo

What is Samo Sundaeguk Nokbeon like?

Samo Sundaeguk Nokbeon (삼오순대국 녹번점) is a new company-run branch, near Eunpyeong District Office, of a sundaeguk shop that has run for 40 years and three generations in Daejo Market in Bulgwang. On a weekend evening my wife and I went to this well-known Nokbeon sundaeguk place for a hearty, warm bowl of soup and a neat plate of suyuk (boiled sliced pork).

The original shop in Daejo Market has had people lining up for years. When I heard a branch had opened cleanly and freshly near Eunpyeong District Office, I came without hesitation.

Where do you park at Samo Sundaeguk Nokbeon?

You can use the Eunpyeong District Office parking lot right next door, so it's easy to come by car. Parking is always a big worry on a sundaeguk street, so this was really convenient.

On weekend evenings the district office lot is open for free, so there was no parking fee to worry about. After parking, the restaurant was just a 1-minute walk away, which made it very easy to reach.

Turning into the alley, a big bright white sign reading 'Bulgwang Samo Sundaeguk Eunpyeong District Office branch' was lit up, so even on my first visit I found it right away.

On one side of the exterior, a wood accent wall carries the golden words '40 years, 3 generations of tradition, premium Samo Sundaeguk.' Before even going in, I could feel the weight of an original famous shop.

What are the atmosphere and hygiene like?

The inside is clean and pleasant enough that you can see right in through the big windows. It carries the deep flavor of a traditional old-style shop, yet the interior is very neatly done.

Under bright lighting, wood-toned tables were tidily arranged, and there was no pork smell or funk in the air at all, which gave me real confidence in the hygiene.

On the kitchen wall, a sign says 'Samo Sundaeguk makes every ingredient in-house at each branch,' and handwritten daily figures show 115 geun of meat boiled today and 25 heads of napa cabbage kimchi made today. That openness made me trust the place even more.

Do you get the side dishes from a self-bar?

Yes, the side dishes are self-serve from the bar, as much as you like. When we sat down, a staff member first handed us a white 3-section dish.

At the self-bar on one side of the room, I filled the dish with fresh, crunchy geotjeori (fresh-style) napa cabbage kimchi, sweet-and-sour well-fermented kkakdugi and crisp raw onion. Maybe because it's made in-house, the kimchi looked glossy right away and was perfect for whetting the appetite.

What is in the 2-person set?

The 2-person set is one platter of assorted suyuk plus one special sundaeguk, and the special comes split into 2 earthenware bowls. We ordered this set, which has great value and a generous lineup.

It shows the owner's thoughtfulness: the special-size sundaeguk is neatly divided into two earthenware bowls.

We didn't have to fuss over sharing; each of us could enjoy a whole bowl, and I was really touched by that. Soon the assorted suyuk on a steamer over a burner and two bubbling bowls of sundaeguk arrived in the middle of the table.

Assorted suyuk: native sundae, head meat, dolseol, osogami-gamtu

On the steaming stainless-steel steamer, special pork cuts, including native sundae, head meat, dolseol and osogami-gamtu, were arranged in bite-friendly slices around the edge, with a fragrant mound of chive salad in the center.

I picked up a glossy slice, dipped it lightly in saeujeot (salted shrimp) and tasted it. No funk at all, tender, and the clean juices kept coming as I chewed, truly excellent. The fatty cuts were bursting with richness, the lean cuts were soft without being dry, and with the chives it never got greasy and felt fresh in the mouth.

The stuffed traditional sundae also had a chewy texture and weighty flavor on a different level from ordinary sundae filled with just glass noodles.

How does the special sundaeguk broth taste?

Since the special size was divided, each bowl was still packed with meat and offal so generously that the spoon felt heavy. I first sipped the milky broth sprinkled with perilla powder and scallions, and the rich, deep savoriness of long-simmered bone broth softly wrapped my tongue.

It wasn't a harsh taste covered up with seasoning; it was the clear, deep umami of real broth that sticks to your lips. I stirred in a big spoonful of the spicy daedagi (seasoning paste) from the table and seasoned with saeujeot, and the broth turned zesty and refreshing in an instant.

I dropped in a bowl of fluffy rice mixed with black rice and topped it with plenty of meat and a piece of well-fermented kkakdugi. The day's fatigue melted away like snow and my stomach felt solidly full.

Is Samo Sundaeguk Nokbeon worth going back to?

Free weekend-evening parking at the district office lot, a clean and pleasant dining room, self-bar kimchi in a neat 3-section dish, a thoughtful 2-person set, and clean, overwhelming broth and suyuk proven by 40 years of tradition. It was a meal I was very satisfied with in every way.

If you're near Nokbeon Station or Eunpyeong District Office and want a reliably filling meal, or a rich sundaeguk to go with a drink, I'd really recommend Samo Sundaeguk Nokbeon.