Jongno 3-ga Korean BBQ, Jirisan black pork with mushroom sauce: Cham

What is Cham Dwaejitgan Jongno Main Branch?

Cham Dwaejitgan Jongno Main Branch (참돼짓간 종로본점) is a restaurant right in front of Jongno 3-ga Station that specializes in grilled Jirisan black pork. The Jirisan black pork here is seriously good.

How do you grill Jirisan black pork belly and neck so they taste best?

At Cham Dwaejitgan Jongno Main Branch, I ordered one serving of Jirisan black pork belly and one serving of Jirisan black pork neck, cut both into bite-sized pieces and grilled them. The texture of fresh, hot meat and meat that has cooled and lost its juices is so different that it really matters to work out how fast the meat cooks, then grill it to match the speed at which you normally eat.

Dropwort, kimchi and bean sprouts in the pork belly fat

Cham Dwaejitgan gives you very generous portions of dropwort (minari), kimchi and bean sprouts. Lightly blanch-grill them in the pork belly fat that naturally renders out, and they taste fantastic.

Cooked meat goes on the side of the grill so it doesn't cool down. The flavor of the grilled Jirisan black pork is simply perfect.

Which sauces are good at Cham Dwaejitgan?

Cham Dwaejitgan Jongno Main Branch has a variety of sauces ready. The standouts are the spicy sauce and the sauce made with tangy mushrooms.

Crispy outside, juicy inside: black pork neck

Grill the Jirisan black pork neck crispy on the outside while keeping the juices locked inside, eat it right away, and it's really delicious. I'd even say it beats a well-cooked steak.

This is what it looks like when it's being grilled properly.

Is one serving each of Jirisan black pork enough?

This is how it comes out at first: one serving each of Jirisan black pork neck and pork belly. The cuts are thick, so once you grill them the amount is not small.

The quality of the meat is really outstanding.

Free milk thistle when you order alcohol

At Cham Dwaejitgan Jongno Main Branch, if you order alcohol, they give you milk thistle like this. I was touched by the small thoughtful service.

I ate almost all of the heaped-up vegetables together with the meat.

It felt like my body was getting healthier all by itself.

The Cham Dwaejitgan sign is also really cool!

A Jongno 3-ga BBQ spot I visit two or three times a year

Cham Dwaejitgan Jongno Main Branch is a place I visit two or three times every year. If you stop by, you'll get to taste proper meat.

Where does Jirisan black pork come from?

Jirisan black pork is said to come from native-lineage black pigs raised for a long time at the foot of Jirisan (Sancheong, Hamyang and Hadong in South Gyeongsang, Namwon in North Jeolla, Gurye in South Jeolla, and so on). The tradition was small-scale farming, feeding the pigs grain leftovers and wild mountain plants, and along with Jeju black pork it became the representative image of the "black pig." However, most black pork on the market today is an improved breed such as Berkshire, which is distinct from Korean native black pigs. Which region is the "original" and which breed is the "real Jirisan black pork" varies by source and by business, so it's safest to treat it as common belief.

Charcoal grilling is a long-standing Korean way of cooking pork over direct fire. Around Jirisan, it seems charcoal-grilled black pork spread as a local specialty as tourists increased.

What Jirisan black pork tastes like

• Texture: The muscle fibers are denser than regular white pork, so it's chewy with a distinct bite.
• Fat: The fat is firm and nutty, and many say it's less greasy.
• Flavor: The meaty aroma is rich, with a hint of sweetness.
• Charcoal effect: Direct charcoal fire crisps the surface and adds a subtle smoky flavor, and dripping fat reduces any gamey smell.
• Pairings: Goes well with meljeot (anchovy sauce), salt, and wild greens and wrap vegetables.

What pork is known to offer nutritionally

• Protein and B vitamins: Pork is rich in vitamin B1, said to help with fatigue recovery and energy metabolism.
• Iron and zinc: It has highly absorbable heme iron, said to help prevent anemia, while zinc supports immune function.
• Unsaturated fat: Black pork fat is said to have a high share of unsaturated fats like oleic acid, though some say the difference from regular pork is small.
• Wrap vegetables: Eating it with lettuce, perilla leaves and garlic is said to add dietary fiber and antioxidants.

Things to watch out for when grilling meat

When fat drips onto charcoal and burns, suspected carcinogens such as benzopyrene can form. It's best to cut away burnt parts, change the grill plate often, or grill so the flame doesn't touch the meat directly. Pork is also high in fat and calories, so eating a lot can be heavy; I recommend eating a moderate amount with vegetables.