Jongno sashimi pub, whole squid seafood tteokbokki: Parang Haenyeojip

In the middle of Seoul, in the heart of Jongno where office towers close in on every side, there is a place that made me forget my everyday life for a while and feel like I'd gone off on a trip to the blue sea. It's Parang Haenyeojip Jongno Branch (파랑해녀집 종로본점), already famous by word of mouth among seafood lovers.

What are the exterior and entrance of Parang Haenyeojip Jongno Branch like?

Parang Haenyeojip Jongno Branch grabs your attention in the busy streets near Jonggak Station with a sign so blue it almost hurts your eyes. True to the name ("Blue Haenyeo House"; haenyeo are Korea's female free-divers), the cool blue exterior gets you excited before you even step in. Lined up at the entrance are big photo standees of the signature dishes, and just looking at them, I understood right away why this place is called a go-to for aged sashimi in Jongno.

The lively mood visible through the glass wall, under a sign with the reservation number printed in big letters, is enough to tempt anyone heading home from work. Even a quick glance at the menu at the entrance, with its mixed seafood platter, octopus bossam (boiled octopus wraps) and mulhoe makguksu (cold spicy raw-fish noodles), all perfect drinking food, got my expectations up.

Interior with wave videos on the walls

Inside Parang Haenyeojip Jongno Branch, a beam projector fills the walls with video of blue waves rolling in without end, creating a dreamy atmosphere as if you were sitting in a seaside raw-fish restaurant. The moment I walked in, my jaw dropped.

White cloths hang from the ceiling in wave shapes like sails, and soft lighting makes the space feel both upscale and cozy. I wondered whether there's another aged sashimi place in Jongno that takes care of the visual fun this thoroughly. Seats are comfortably spaced, and each table has a tablet ordering system, so it was convenient even at a busy hour.

What did we order? Small aged sashimi platter and seafood tteokbokki

At Parang Haenyeojip Jongno Branch, we ordered the small mixed aged sashimi platter and added seafood tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes) as a hot, brothy side. Browsing the tablet menu slowly, I saw the place is also known for the Haenyeo Box, a very flashy set. But today we wanted to focus on the pure taste of the fish, so we went with the aged sashimi platter.

What's in the small aged sashimi platter, and how does it taste?

The small aged sashimi platter came with thick-cut flatfish (gwangeo), salmon and seasonal fish, so generous and neatly arranged that it was hard to believe it was the small size. The faint sheen on the surface of the slices spoke for their freshness.

First I picked up a piece prepared to keep the texture of the skin. The chewy springiness I felt through my chopsticks was no ordinary thing. The moment I bit in, that deep savory richness unique to aged sashimi, which you can't get from ordinary live-fish sashimi, burst across my mouth. The soft yet chewy texture clinging to the tongue was enough to confirm the reputation of this Jongno aged sashimi spot.

Combining the aged kimchi, radish sprouts, chili and garlic served alongside, to taste, made the flavor layers even richer. The salmon in particular was superb, with a nutty richness that melted in my mouth, and the white fish grew sweeter the more I chewed, making me crave a glass of soju.

How was the seafood tteokbokki with whole squid?

The seafood tteokbokki here is a dish where one big whole squid sits on top of a broth packed with mussels, and you boil it at the table on a portable gas burner. After enjoying the cool freshness of raw fish, it was just the moment I needed some hot heat. It was a real seafood party, and the look alone already earned a pass.

The firmness I felt at the tip of the scissors practically burst out of the screen. Well-cooked blanched squid meeting the spicy tteokbokki sauce was far better than I expected. The cool, deep flavor from the seafood melted into the broth, so the broth itself was like a dish of its own.

Fishing out the soft wheat rice cakes, crunchy vegetables and fresh shellfish was a lot of fun. The place is famous for aged sashimi, but the seafood tteokbokki holds its own against the main dish. When your mouth gets a little cold from the raw fish, one sip of spicy broth brings your appetite right back, a magical combination.

Service and overall satisfaction

Our time at Parang Haenyeojip Jongno Branch was a feast for all five senses. Thanks to the rolling wave videos I forgot the noise of the city and felt the calm of being out at sea, and in each carefully aged slice of fish I could taste the chef's craftsmanship.

Even a single jug of hovenia tea (heotgaesu) at each table showed consideration for guests, and the staff, who kept smiling despite being busy, gave excellent service. It's surprisingly hard to find a proper raw-fish restaurant around Jongno, but Parang Haenyeojip is a rare place that has taste, atmosphere and good value all together.

Who is it for? Visit tips

Parang Haenyeojip Jongno Branch would be a top choice for office workers searching for a company dinner spot, or couples wanting a date somewhere with a great mood. Living up to its title as an aged sashimi spot in Jongno, the quality of the raw fish is excellent, so I recommend it to any sashimi lover.

Chatting with fresh aged sashimi and spicy seafood tteokbokki in front of you, against a wall of rolling blue waves, gives a rest more precious than any trip. I plan to go back soon to try other seasonal fish. At this hidden pearl of Jongno, I hope you'll enjoy the bounty of the sea too.

• Parang Haenyeojip Jongno Branch is popular, so there may be a wait at peak hours.
• It's best to book ahead or arrive a little early.