Filter Hour Drifter · 47 stories

The Filter Hour

I write about cafés I visit around Seoul, from drinks to the small details of each stop. · Writes about: Cafés · Restaurants · Bars

PlaceSeocho, SeoulBars

Late-night izakaya near Gangnam Station: shrimp gambas, Odeng Osaek

Odeng Osaek Gangnam Station Branch is a handmade oden izakaya in Seocho, Seoul, on the Giordano alley bar street between Gangnam Station and Sinnonhyeon Station, with an oden machine at every table. On a second round with a friend, the writer ordered okonomiyaki (17,500 won) and whole-shrimp gambas (22,500 won), and the staff added a complimentary caramelized yuzu mochiri tofu (chewy Japanese-style tofu). Open late with a wide range of menu prices, Odeng Osaek is an easy, casual pick for a second round near Gangnam Station.

Written May 22, 2026Sponsored
PlaceGangnam, SeoulRestaurants

Apgujeong budget Western spot, color-changing lemonade: Eulji Darak

Eulji Darak Apgujeong Dosan Park is an omurice and pasta restaurant on the 2nd floor, 3 minutes from Dosan Park near Apgujeongnodeo Station in Gangnam, Seoul. On a weekday evening the writer had the Darak omurice (17,000 won), the pork neck steak and a lemonade (6,900 won) that turns from blue to purple, and Eulji Darak's Harry Potter-style bookcase entrance and 3,000 won parking support stood out. Verdict: Eulji Darak is a good-value Western restaurant in Apgujeong for a date or a pre-wedding get-together with friends, with dishes in the 10,000–20,000 won range.

Written Oct 30, 2026Sponsored
PlaceSeongdong, SeoulRestaurants

Udon restaurant in Seongsu: weeknight tenbukkake udon and gyudon, Kosi

Kosi Seongsu Branch is an udon and tempura restaurant in Seongsu, Seoul, one minute from Ttukseom Station Exit 6. After about a 15-minute walk from sightseeing around Seongsu, the blogger came on a weekday evening for Sanuki-noodle tenbukkake udon (11,000 won) and gyudon (beef rice bowl, 10,500 won). The savory broth, springy noodles and generous portions felt excellent for the roughly 10,000-won price. Kosi Seongsu Branch is a good-value udon spot in Seongsu for a solo meal or dinner with friends at just over 10,000 won.

Written Oct 30, 2026Sponsored
PlaceSeongdong, SeoulCafés

Seongsu terrace café with an oat milk Einspänner: Iridescent

Iridescent is a terrace-style café near Ttukseom Station and Seoulsup in Seongdong, Seoul, with its floor-to-ceiling windows thrown wide open. On a weekend visit, the writer had Iridescent's sweet-cream Einspänner switched to oat milk for 1,200 won extra, which brought an impressive almond-like nutty flavour, while a friend ordered the freshly squeezed lemonade. For lactose-intolerant coffee lovers looking for a Seoulsup terrace café, Iridescent is a good choice.

Written Jun 6, 2026Sponsored
PlaceSeongdong, SeoulCafés

Quiet weeknight café in Seongsu: almond latte and americano, T Coffee

T Coffee (티 커피) is a basement café on a quiet stretch of Achasan-ro in Seongsu, Seoul, a 7-minute walk from Seongsu Station Exit 2. On a weekday evening the writer ordered an almond latte made with almond syrup (₩7,000) and a crema-rich americano (₩5,500), and T Coffee's roomy space, brick floor and wall of windows kept it unusually calm for Seongsu. For a Seongsu café that isn't crowded, T Coffee is an easy recommendation.

Written Oct 24, 2026Sponsored
PlaceGangnam, SeoulRestaurants

Garosu-gil tonkatsu lunch with parking and black rice: Ikki Roll Katsu

Ikki Roll Katsu Garosu-gil Main Branch is a roll katsu and tonkatsu restaurant on basement level 1 in Garosu-gil, a 5-minute walk from Sinsa Station Exit 8 in Gangnam, Seoul. On a weekday-morning visit, the basic tonkatsu (₩12,500) used Sunjin Pork loin that tasted clean rather than greasy. The vegetable-packed sauce, the black rice and the self bar with unlimited rice, soup and side dishes were the highlights. With paid parking (₩3,000 for the first 60 minutes), Ikki Roll Katsu Garosu-gil Main Branch is a tonkatsu lunch spot in Garosu-gil worth remembering.

Written Oct 20, 2026Sponsored
PlaceSeocho, SeoulRestaurants

Gyodae Station burger joint with whisky: bacon cheese fries, Daily Fix

Daily Fix Seocho Gyodae Branch is a handmade burger restaurant near Gyodae Station Exit 9 and Seocho Station in Seocho, Seoul, where burgers can be ordered with whisky and highballs. After falling for the Seoul National University Station branch, the writer returned on a weekday evening for a ₩11,900 classic burger, ₩7,900 bacon cheese fries and ₩5,900 coleslaw, and was won over by the crisp, butter-toasted bun and generous portions. Verdict: Daily Fix served the writer's number-one burger of the year and is the best burger place in Seoul, worth going back to on purpose.

Written Oct 15, 2026Sponsored
PlaceGangnam, SeoulRestaurants

Apgujeong Korean BBQ with valet parking and open windows: Ongijip

Ongijip Main Branch (옹기집 본점) is a pork belly and par-grilled Korean BBQ restaurant near the Eulji Hospital intersection in Apgujeong, Gangnam, Seoul, where staff grill all the meat for you. On a weekday evening with a friend, the writer sat by the wide-open windows, which give the room an outdoor-patio feel, and ordered Par-Grilled Set A (₩60,000) and doenjang stew. Staff cooked aged pork neck, pork belly and pork shoulder cap (gabrisal) on a traditional onggi clay grill, and they ate the meat wrapped with fresh scallion salad. With valet parking (₩5,000) and hours until 11 PM, Ongijip Main Branch is a good pick for a late Korean BBQ dinner when you drive in Gangnam.

Written Oct 13, 2026Sponsored
PlaceMapo, SeoulBars

Big Hongdae bar for 4: salt chicken neck and odeng soup: Kkoko Land

Kkoko Land (꼬꼬랜드) is a new 100-pyeong (about 330 m²) chicken bar with an outdoor-stall feel in Seogyo-dong, Mapo, Seoul, between Hongdae, Hapjeong and Sangsu Station. At 10pm on a weekday, four people at Kkoko Land ordered the signature charcoal chicken neck with salt (₩21,000), a No. 10 kettle odeng (fish cake) soup (₩16,000) and soju; those two dishes alone left all four full, and free snacks and a welcome drink came on top. Kkoko Land is a roomy Hongdae bar for watching postseason baseball on big screens and drinking until 4am.

Written Oct 11, 2026Sponsored
PlaceMapo, SeoulCafés

Mapo terrace café: oat milk Einspänner and egg financier, Ieo Coffee

Ieo Coffee Roasters Gongdeok Branch is a dog-friendly roastery café beside Gyeongui Line Forest Park in Mapo, Seoul, between Daeheung Station and Gongdeok Station. After an autumn weekday afternoon walk along Gyeongui Line Forest Park, the writer sat on the terrace with an Einspänner switched to oat milk (4,800 won) and an egg financier (4,100 won); the balance of cream and espresso shot and the financier's crisp outside and soft inside stood out. The terrace at Ieo Coffee Roasters Gongdeok Branch is recommended for anyone who is lactose intolerant or out walking a dog.

Written Oct 10, 2026Sponsored
PlaceJongno, SeoulRestaurants

Jongno 3-ga Korean BBQ on a Saturday, kimchi vs doenjang stew: Cham

Cham Dwaejitgan Jongno Main Branch is a Korean BBQ restaurant in Jongno, Seoul, on the ground floor of the Piccadilly CGV building about 50m from Jongno 3-ga Station, where staff grill the minari pork belly for you. On a Saturday with friends, the blogger ordered cham pork belly, kkotmoksal (prime pork neck) and jowl, plus kimchi stew, doenjang (soybean paste) stew and fried rice; the meat was nutty to the point of tasting sweet, and the kimchi stew was the friends' favourite. Cham Dwaejitgan Jongno Main Branch is best enjoyed by filling up on meat rather than sides, and it works well for group dinners.

Written Jul 10, 2026Sponsored
PlaceDongjak, SeoulBars

Sadang Station wine bar with doenjang clam stew and a baguette: Ui

Ui Sadang Branch (우이 사당점) is a pasta and wine bar in the Sadang-dong food alley, a 3-minute walk from Sadang Station in Seoul. On a weekend visit at 10 p.m., the writer ordered the vongole doenjang stew (clams steamed in a soybean-paste broth, ₩20,000), the mozzarella tomato risotto (₩24,000) and a ₩3,000 baguette, and dipping the baguette into the sujebi-filled (hand-torn noodle) clam broth was the highlight. With its antique interior and deep clam broth, Ui Sadang Branch is a Sadang Station bar worth recommending for a date or a blind date.

Written Jul 16, 2026Sponsored