Korean restaurant in Mapo, Seoul: gomtang at Doonjeong Hongdae

Wanting a hot bowl of soup, I visited Doonjeong Hongdae Direct Branch (도온정 홍대직영점) with my husband over the weekend. We ordered one clear gomtang (beef bone soup) and one special clear gomtang, along with meat kimchi jeon (kimchi pancake). Alternating between the light broth and savory pancake, we both had a filling meal.

How do you get there from Hongik University Station?

The restaurant is on the first floor at 183-12 Donggyo-ro, Mapo-gu, Seoul. It is about a three-minute walk from Exit 1 of Hongik University Station, so it was easy to reach by subway.

Walk along the main road from the exit, then head into an alley, and you will find it. The alley was quiet and slightly removed from the busy area, and because it was close to the station, I arrived without getting lost.

The original post lists the hours as daily from 11:00 to 21:00, and says Naver reservations are available. However, it also notes a break time and that hours can vary slightly by day, so it is best to check before visiting.

Is the atmosphere good for a quiet meal for two?

Inside, it had a neat, polished Korean restaurant atmosphere. The soft lighting and calm color palette made it comfortable to sit, talk, and eat.

When we arrived, we were seated right away without waiting. However, not long after we ordered, the empty seats filled quickly.

The staff kindly showed us to our table and explained the menu. There was a fair amount of space between tables, so we could talk without paying much attention to neighboring diners. The layout also looked suitable for groups.

What did we order, and how much was it?

The signature dish is clear gomtang simmered for a long time with Korean native beef from female cattle. Here is what we ordered and the prices at the time.

• Clear gomtang: ₩13,000
• Special clear gomtang: ₩18,000
• Meat kimchi jeon: ₩18,000

Along with clear broth, there were spicy gomtang options and special dishes with extra meat. I chose the clear gomtang, while my husband chose the special clear gomtang with a generous amount of meat.

How did the clear gomtang and special gomtang differ in taste and portion?

How were the broth and seasoning of the clear gomtang?

The ₩13,000 clear gomtang was clean and not overpowering from the first spoonful. Rather than rich and heavy, the light broth had a deep Korean native beef stock flavor.

To me, it had no unpleasant meat odor, and I did not tire of it even when drinking the broth on its own. The rice came already mixed into the soup, so I could eat it right away.

I could have adjusted the mild seasoning with salt, but the initial seasoning was right for me, so I ate it as served.

Did the special clear gomtang have enough meat?

The ₩18,000 special clear gomtang definitely had a generous amount of meat. Every spoonful caught some meat, and the texture varied by cut, from tender to chewy. It also included tendon, which I tried from my husband's bowl.

It used the same broth as the clear gomtang, but the extra meat gave it a deeper savory flavor. My husband was also satisfied with the amount of meat and the broth, and it left him feeling full.

How was the meat kimchi jeon with gomtang?

The meat kimchi jeon was ₩18,000. It was crisp outside and moist inside, with plenty of aged kimchi and Korean native beef.

The tangy kimchi was joined by the savory flavor of the meat. It became more nutty as I chewed, so I kept reaching for it between bites of gomtang.

Eating it alternately with the light broth made my palate feel refreshed. We talked about how well it would also work as an accompaniment to drinks for two.

What kind of meal would make me want to return?

I would return when I wanted a filling meal in Hongdae with a light broth. The atmosphere, which was good for quiet conversation, and the kind service also stayed with me. I thought it would suit a meal with my parents or a Korean dinner for two.

This time I chose the clear broth, so next time I would like to try the spicy gomtang and other dishes to have with drinks.