Chinese restaurant near Hongdae Playground: 4 dishes for two at Surim

I went to Surim Sikdang, a Hongdae favorite said to be perfect for eating alone, with single-serving dishes and roomy counter seats.

Where is Surim Sikdang Hongdae and when is it open?

Surim Sikdang Hongdae is a 1–2 minute walk from the Hongdae playground, which has been redone and feels completely different from before. It is 400 meters from Sangsu Station Exit 2, or about a 10-minute walk from Hongik Univ. Station Exit 9.

It is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Break time is 3 to 5 p.m. on weekdays, and there is no break time on weekends.

It was the weekend of Memorial Day, so I didn't have to go to work. I planned a rare day out in Seoul and decided to start with a meal, which is how I ended up at this solo-friendly Hongdae spot, Surim Sikdang (수림식당).

I'm always stuck in the office while the sun is up, so even the hot midday sun felt welcome, and the walk from the station was oddly exciting. When I arrived, it was a bright, cheerful restaurant near the playground.

There's a menu at the entrance, so no awkward moment of not knowing what to expect, and the signature dishes are shown big, so even people who can't decide will be fine.

Is Surim Sikdang Hongdae good for dining alone? Counter seats and tables

The dining hall is small, with counter seats on both sides and a big table in the middle, so you won't feel awkward coming alone. Quite a few people were eating alone at the counter that day.

The moment I opened the door, a blast of cool air hit me. Honestly, in summer, nothing beats cold air conditioning as an image strategy, better than any atmosphere or interior.

I thought the menu was just right for one bowl each, and with counter seats roomy enough that nobody minds you sitting alone, it seemed like the perfect place to eat solo. Sure enough, quite a few people were eating alone there that day too.

It's small but has everything you need, and there's even a restroom inside.

The spacious back room at Surim Sikdang Hongdae, found on the way to the restroom

I went to wash my hands before eating and, oh my, there was another proper, spacious room at the back! The inside had seemed a bit smaller than the outside suggested, and if I hadn't washed my hands, I'd never have known. Random, but let's all make hand-washing a habit.

There's a baby chair in there too. It's a welcome-baby zone.

I had first settled at a table in front of the kitchen, but moved here the second I saw it. A calm, quiet place to eat, a little away from the bustling main street, felt like peace and happiness to a total introvert like me.

Why two people ordered four dishes at Surim Sikdang

The menu at Surim Sikdang isn't huge, but each dish has a clear personality. There were two of us, so we ordered four. For someone who eats twice as much as everyone else, one dish per person is something I've never done in my life.

Side dishes and small plates are at the self-serve bar.

Before long, our lunch filled the big table. When the table is packed like this, inner peace arrives. I'm just a born foodie, can't help it.

Is the tantanmen at Surim Sikdang very spicy?

The tantanmen (sesame-style spicy noodles) at Surim Sikdang has chili oil floating on top, so it looks very spicy, but it's just pleasantly kick-y. It's the one I picked, since I like things hot and nutty.

I'm told it's a tantanmen with a clean, light taste, made with pork-bone broth and a paprika sauce.

No wonder it felt less greasy than plain chili oil would. So that was paprika?

Crumbly minced pork, a kick that isn't greasy, and noodles that are soft yet springy, so slurping them up was a fun texture, too.

Shrimp wonton noodles at Surim Sikdang: a pick for anyone who can't handle spice

The shrimp wonton noodles at Surim Sikdang have a pork-bone base with seafood and vegetables added, which makes them refreshing yet mild. My dining companion, the ultimate spice wimp, picked this one.

Probably because of the pork-bone base, the broth was much heavier and richer than the wonton noodles I know. Heavy doesn't mean stuffy or greasy, mind you.

It's mild and nutty but rich, so even if you come with kids and order it, both adults and children can enjoy it. The tantanmen is tantan (firm) and the wonton is tangtang (a soupy pun), so if you made me pick one, it's a tie. That's how satisfying both were.

How tender is the dongpo pork rice bowl at Surim Sikdang?

The dongpo pork rice bowl (braised pork belly over rice) at Surim Sikdang had big, thick, glossy pieces of meat, but the texture was a little firm rather than melt-in-your-mouth. The sauce was salty, and mixed with rice it was well balanced.

Noodles are noodles and rice is rice, and a Korean has to chew rice, so I picked the dongpo pork bowl. Knowing the complicated process of boiling, frying and steaming, it's one of my favorites that I order at any Chinese restaurant without fail.

Sure enough, the gloss alone seemed to show the result of that complicated process.

The meat was so big and thick that I could hardly pick it up with chopsticks in one go, and the texture was a bit firmer than the melt-in-your-mouth kind I'd had before, which threw me slightly.

The sauce was salty and balanced well when mixed with the rice, so I mixed it up and got today's rice quota.

How big are the eggplant dumplings at Surim Sikdang?

The eggplant dumplings (가지만두), one of Surim Sikdang's signatures, come in different sizes. I picked the small one with 5 pieces, and each was still the size of my palm. They arrived fresh from the fryer, crispy and heavily filled.

Odd color, and as a kid I'd never even look at cucumbers or eggplant. Proof that I've gotten older is right here... eggplant and cucumber are now my favorite vegetables. Hehehe, getting old is so cool.

You can order the dumplings by size, and out of conscience I picked the 5-piece one. Thank goodness I didn't go for the large; they're seriously huge. How huge?

The size of my palm. Admittedly, my hand is about elementary-schooler size... but it's been a long time since I've seen a dumpling this big.

It fills your mouth as much as its size suggests. Anything fresh from the fryer is bound to be good, but with that heavy, filling crunch, ah... I can't take it anymore.

Eggplant dumplings and a daytime beer at Surim Sikdang

I went for a daytime drink.

Wow, this place does beer right. Ice-cold enough to make my throat tremble, paired with fried food fresh enough to scrape the roof of my mouth. Isn't this the happiness of a weekend off?

Is Surim Sikdang Hongdae worth a return visit?

Surim Sikdang in Hongdae has dishes full of personality and reasonable prices.

With its fresh, clean atmosphere and counter seats where you can come alone without feeling awkward, it was a great Hongdae spot for solo dining.