Seolleung sushi bar: all tuna nigiri and mackerel miso stew, Sakai
Sakai is an okonomi-style sushi bar near Seolleung Station in Gangnam, Seoul, where there is no set course: diners read the day's neta list, write their picks on a Post-it and order one piece at a time. Over sake with a friend, the visit covered flounder, engawa, sea bream, scallop, horse mackerel, sweet shrimp and conger eel, house-made tamago nigiri, every kind of tuna nigiri on the list, plus the day's simmered dish of mackerel in miso and a bowl of miso soup. Sakai turned out to be the best sushi of the writer's life, and a certain repeat visit.