Mapo Korean pub for steamed pork and kalguksu: Dambaek Jujeom

A table of suyuk and drinks found in a Sangsu alley

Dambaek Jujeom A pub made for drinks, with nothing to skip: tender pork jowl suyuk (slices of boiled pork), nutty grilled tofu, and kalguksu (knife-cut noodles) to finish.

It sits deep in an alley in Seogyo-dong, and its clean white sign catches the eye even from a distance. It is on a slightly raised ground floor, reached by a few steps.

This wooden sign is the first thing I saw on entering. It bears the motto “Diligence, honesty, humility,” which seemed to hint at the owner’s steadfast dedication to the food.

An interior made for quiet conversation

This is the overall mood of the dining room. Solid wood-toned tables and warm hanji paper lighting create a calm atmosphere. Unlike a noisy drinking spot, it was lovely for a quiet conversation.

The menu cover prominently explains a Naver receipt-review event. Taking part can get you either a side dish or a complimentary item, so it is worth checking before you order.

Suyuk kept moist in a steamer

The accompaniments for the suyuk arrive neatly arranged, along with mushrooms, scallions, and cabbage to add to the kalguksu later. There is ssamjang dipping paste, garlic, chili peppers, and savory salted shrimp—exactly the classic essentials for suyuk.

The pork, already gently cooked in the kitchen, arrives in its dedicated steamer over a burner. A generous bed of chives underneath does a great job of keeping any porky smell at bay.

This pork belly suyuk, sprinkled with sesame seeds, looked especially appetizing. Its layers of lean meat and fat were well balanced, making every bite wonderfully tender and rich.

To taste the pork belly itself first, I lifted a piece with no sauce at all. I only dipped it in salted shrimp, and it was cleanly cooked without a trace of gaminess.

Next came the thick-cut pork jowl suyuk. Its characteristic firmer chew, a little more pronounced than pork belly, and deep fatty flavor spread pleasantly across the palate.

Steam continued to rise from the steamer throughout the meal. With no worry about the meat cooling down and drying out, it was easy to slow the pace and leisurely raise a glass.

Perilla oil tofu with the suyuk

Not wanting to eat only suyuk, I added the perilla oil grilled tofu as a side. There were eight bite-sized pieces, paired with a soy dipping sauce scattered with Cheongyang chilies.

The tofu was beautifully browned, with a lightly crisp exterior. Even before it reached the table, the deep, nutty scent of perilla oil was already tempting my nose.

I gave the tofu a generous dip in the spicy, salty Cheongyang chili soy sauce. The exterior was firm while the inside was soft and pillowy, almost like pudding, and that contrast was so appealing.

The nutty perilla oil tofu, rich pork, and spicy, crunchy dried radish strips came together with tremendous synergy. This combination was so good that I kept making bites exactly like this.

Finishing with kalguksu after the suyuk

Once most of the meat is gone, ask a staff member for the kalguksu. They clear away the steamer, place a hotpot on the burner, and pour in a generous stream of refreshing broth.

When the broth starts bubbling, add every last bit of the cabbage, scallions, mushrooms, and other vegetables that arrived at the start. Once the vegetables soften slightly and the broth returns to a boil, carefully drop in the fresh kalguksu noodles too.

I lifted a generous bundle of properly cooked kalguksu noodles with cabbage. The clean, light broth had none of that murky heaviness, and it felt as if it washed away the richness left by the pork.

I placed the final saved piece of suyuk on a spoon, swept it up with the kalguksu noodles in one bite, and finished the meal perfectly.

It felt like discovering a gem of a place for drinks in a Sangsu Station alley. Its greatest strengths are that the burner and steamer keep the meat moist and warm throughout the meal, and that the rich pork is balanced so beautifully by the light kalguksu.