Gwanghwamun salmon sushi set with aburi salmon and caviar: Ilpum

Where is Ilpum Gwanghwamun and what are its hours?

• Address: 223, B2, 19 Jong-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul (24 Jongno 1-ga), South Korea
• Reservations: Naver Reservation or by phone
• Hours: Lunch 11:00–15:00 (last order 14:00), break 15:00–17:30, dinner 17:30–21:30 (last order 20:00), closed every Sunday
• Parking: Lemeilleur Jongno Town parking, up to 2 hours free with Ilpum use
• Amenities: Solo seats, bar table, couple seats, group seating up to 26, reservations, takeout, Wi-Fi, easy payment
• Location: 249m / 4-minute walk from Jonggak Station Exit 1, or bus to Jongno 1-ga stop

Kaisendon and the salmon sushi set at Ilpum: the short verdict

Ilpum Gwanghwamun The kaisendon (seafood rice bowl) comes packed with tuna akami, salmon, white fish, squid, scallop, and head-on shrimp over rice. I picked up each piece and wrapped it in seaweed — the flying fish roe mixed into the rice popped with every bite, so good I couldn't stop. The salmon sushi set alternates raw salmon and lightly seared aburi salmon, so you get two flavors from one plate. It's close to Jonggak Station Exit 1, making it easy for a solo lunch or a slow dinner for two. Every main comes with chawanmushi, udon, and dessert too, making this a solid pick for kaisendon in Gwanghwamun.

What is the seating like inside Ilpum Gwanghwamun?

At Ilpum Gwanghwamun, the bar table looks straight into the open kitchen. On the wall, there's an Ilpum logo and sake bottles on display.

Solo seats, a bar table, and 4-person tables sit separately, so it works for eating alone, for two, or for a group.

A sign listing ingredient origins hangs on one wall. Flounder, abalone, mackerel, freshwater eel, and rice are domestic; sea bream, yellowtail, and scallop are from Japan.

What is on the menu at Ilpum Gwanghwamun?

Ilpum Gwanghwamun's signature menu includes kaisendon, premium kaisendon, unagi don (grilled eel rice bowl) for one, and a sushi omakase platter.

For sushi there's today's sushi, the salmon sushi set meal, and a white fish sushi set meal, plus à la carte pieces like flounder-and-skin or scallop. Every main menu item comes with chawanmushi, noodles, a fried dish, and dessert included.

On the back, there's sashimi and fried items like sashimi moriawase, uni sanhap, and chicken karaage. We ordered kaisendon, the salmon sushi set meal, and 2 pieces of flounder-and-skin sushi.

Starting the meal with chawanmushi

Order a main and chawanmushi (savory egg custard) arrives first.

The chawanmushi is moist and silky. It melts softly in your mouth.

Inside there's a whole shrimp. The plump, springy shrimp against the soft custard gives a nice contrast in texture.

Salmon sushi set: raw salmon with caviar and seared aburi salmon

Here's the salmon sushi set meal. The plate is piled high with salmon sushi, alongside miso soup and baek-kimchi (mild white kimchi).

The raw salmon is topped with salmon roe and caviar, while the piece below is lightly seared aburi salmon.

The raw salmon is thick with a nice layer of fat. A little wasabi on top brings out more of its richness.

The aburi salmon comes topped with katsuobushi (bonito flakes).

Only the surface is seared, so the inside still has that raw salmon texture. The charred aroma adds depth to the richness.

Adding caviar on top of the salmon brings a salty note that really lifts the umami. The caviar pops nicely alongside the salmon.

One piece of aburi salmon—

topped with fresh wasabi, one bite—

What comes in the kaisendon seafood rice bowl?

Here's the kaisendon — a Gwanghwamun kaisendon spot that piles tuna akami, salmon, white fish, squid, scallop, and shrimp all into one bowl.

The kaisendon comes with seaweed, miso soup, and baek-kimchi on the side.

I put fresh wasabi on the tuna akami and wrapped it in seaweed. Wrapped this way, the tuna goes down with even more umami.

The squid is nicely sweet.

The rice has flying fish roe mixed in, so wrapping it with scallop gives you that popping texture!

Ordering one sushi set and one kaisendon to share was great for two people — the fish selection differs between them, so it's fun to alternate.

The white fish has a chewy texture on the skin side that's delicious.

Adding 2 pieces of flounder-and-skin sushi

2 pieces of flounder-and-skin sushi — a nice à la carte add-on if you want a little more.

Since it's from the fin side of the salmon, the grain looks tight and fine. It has a rich, mellow flavor once it's in your mouth.

The surface is lightly seared and brushed with soy sauce, so it's tasty even eaten plain.

Cold udon and mango yogurt dessert to finish

The main menu also comes with cold udon. Topped with a piece of karaage, tenkasu (crispy tempura bits), and chives, it's nice to sip the broth between bites of sushi.

Last up is dessert. Mango yogurt served in a glass bowl.

Small enough to hold in one hand—

Mango on top, yogurt below, two layers.

Sweet and tangy, a perfect way to finish.

Is Ilpum Gwanghwamun worth sharing a meal at?

The kaisendon is great for wrapping each piece of fish in seaweed, and the salmon sushi set lets you alternate between raw and aburi salmon — perfect for ordering one of each to share between two people. Every main comes with chawanmushi, udon, and dessert, making for a satisfying full meal. It's close to Jonggak Station Exit 1, so it's an easy stop for lunch or dinner.

• Kaisendon is great wrapped in seaweed piece by piece, while the salmon sushi set lets you alternate between raw and aburi salmon
• If the mains alone feel a bit short, this Gwanghwamun sushi spot is good for adding à la carte pieces
• Solo diners can go for a bowl of kaisendon, while pairs can order the sushi set too and split everything — a solid Gwanghwamun kaisendon restaurant