Sisters' Hanwoo Gopchang Feast at Gareak Market, Songpa: Midang

Gareak Market gopchang, the day I fell for offal packed full of fat

My sisters and I finally found a day when all three of us were free. The moment we met up, we started talking about getting something good to eat, and — like we'd planned it — all three of us shouted 'gopchang (beef small intestine)!' at the same time.

Our tastes differ a bit, but this is one dish where the three of us always agree. After some debate about where to go, we headed to Midang Hanwoo Gopchang, known for offal that's fresh with no gamy smell.

As we approached the entrance, the red sign caught our eye from far away. We'd driven, so we went looking for parking — facing the building and going around the left alley, we found a parking spot right away without any trouble.

Inside and the seating

Inside, round tables were set up, which made for a cozy atmosphere perfect for gathering close together.

What we ordered: Special Hanwoo Gopchang Set + one extra serving of gopchang

Once we sat down, we looked over the menu carefully. They select Korean beef (hanwoo) slaughtered that same day, and it's said to have a deep, savory flavor and chewy texture that grows richer the more you chew.

Since we wanted to eat a generous variety, we ordered the 68,000-won Special Hanwoo Gopchang Set plus an extra 25,000-won serving of gopchang. The Special Hanwoo Gopchang Set turned out to be a popular menu that lets you enjoy every part of the hanwoo offal at once — gopchang, yangkitmeori, makchang, daechang, honeycomb tripe, heart, and more.

Once we ordered, tangy seasoned chives and other side dishes were neatly arranged around the grill.

At last, the Special Hanwoo Gopchang Set arrived, piled generously on the grill.

A savory, rich smell of fat drifted up from the plump, fully-packed pieces.

A staff member grilled it for us right at the table. Listening to it slowly sizzle to golden brown made the wait feel very long.

From heart to honeycomb tripe to makchang

We started with the heart, which you can eat as soon as the blood is cooked off. Dipped in sesame oil salt and popped in the mouth before it toughens up, it had a texture as soft as beef tenderloin and a clean, meaty aroma that lingered pleasantly.

Next we picked up the oddly shaped honeycomb tripe. Its layered texture made for a fun, chewy bite each time, and the savory fat soaked between the layers brought up a nice umami flavor.

The makchang, cooked to a reddish hue, had its grill-touched side browned nicely, giving it a springy bite with every chew.

Gopchang packed full of fat with no gaps

The gopchang, which we'd been looking forward to most, showed a cross-section fully packed with pale fat, no gaps at all. The first bite had none of the usual gamy smell — just a heavy, rich flavor filling the mouth.

The story of the Hadong plum house sauce

We also heard a really interesting story here. The manager, who was helping serve, quietly shared the secret behind their house sauce.

It's made with plum extract aged for six months in Hadong, brought in specially, with finely sliced cheongyang chili mixed in. There's a backstory too — the owner, back when he was an ordinary office worker, fell in love with this sauce's flavor and ended up starting the restaurant because of it.

After hearing that, we dipped the gopchang generously into the sauce, and honestly, the umami flavor made total sense. The deep sweetness of the plum and the sharp kick of the cheongyang chili cut right through the gopchang's rich, fatty taste, refreshing it completely.

Daechang blooming open

Last, we tried the daechang (beef large intestine), which had bloomed open on the grill. Cooked translucent and moist, it melted the moment it hit the mouth, bursting with a sweet, rich fatty flavor.

My younger sister, who usually gets an upset stomach from fatty food, ate this gopchang cleanly all the way through — I think because it was fresh with no gamy smell. My older sister and I agreed it went down smoothly with no odor at all, and we emptied the grill in no time.

A glass of draft beer with soft foam paired perfectly with the savory grilled meat, clearing the palate completely. We also spooned up the fragrant, bubbling stew bit by bit, keeping the meal hearty all the way through.

Finishing with grill fried rice

The finale, of course, was rice fried right on the grill, pressed down as it cooked. The leftover fat mixed with spicy seasoning and seaweed flakes gave it a glossy sheen, and even though we were already full, our spoons kept going back for more.

They also gave us doenjang jjigae as a free service to eat alongside the fried rice. So touched, so touched!

Q&A worth knowing before you visit

Where can I park?

Facing the building where the restaurant is located, go around the alley on the left, and you'll find a parking space. (Space may be limited, so checking ahead before your visit is recommended.)

Is the gopchang smell or fattiness a concern?

There was almost no gamy smell, and it was fresh enough to enjoy without worry. The special plum sauce cuts through the fattiness well, making for a clean meal.

What combination would you recommend?

I'd recommend the Special Hanwoo Gopchang Set, which lets you try a variety of parts. Dip everything generously in the house sauce made with Hadong plum extract and cheongyang chili for a much cleaner taste. And don't skip the finishing fried rice.