Wood-fired chicken in Jung-gu, Seoul: Gyeryugwan

A wood-fired chicken spot in the Sindang Jungang Market alley

The Sindang Jungang Market area is traditionally known for gopchang (grilled beef intestines) and tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes), but lately I kept hearing about a chicken place that has made a name for itself. It is Gyeryugwan (계류관) in Sindang. I had heard several times about its whole chicken roasted over oak firewood with neungi mushrooms, and had been keeping it in the back of my mind. There were also reports of quite a wait, so I went half curious whether it was really worth it, half excited.

Location and things to know before visiting

It is a little over a five-minute walk from Exit 2 of Sindang Station on subway lines 2 and 6. It sits deep in an alley of Sindang Jungang Market, so it is easy to pass by if you only follow the main road. I would feel more at ease turning on a map app and checking from the entrance to the alley.

Gyeryugwan does not have its own parking. If you are driving, it is better to park at Sindang Station Public Parking Lot and walk over; since the market gets crowded in the evening, I recommend public transit. Business information can change depending on the restaurant, so do check once before you visit.

As you would expect from a market-alley location, the exterior is not flashy. There is simply a neat sign on the first floor of an older commercial building. But once you stand in front, the distinctive scent of wood-fired cooking gently drifts out. That smell alone made me think, “Okay, they really know how to roast here.”

A wait can develop at dinner time, so I recommend joining the queue in advance through Catchtable!

A tidy interior and QR ordering

Once inside, it is tidier than expected. The lighting is not overly bright, giving it a mood that is nice for having a drink with dinner.

The tables are not especially far apart, but it did not feel cramped for a market restaurant. I also liked that, despite being a place that handles wood-fired chicken, the room did not smell of grease.

Gyeryugwan’s menu is distinctive for presenting one chicken through different cuts and cooking methods. It was also nice to see that almost all of the ingredients were domestically sourced.

• Oak-and-neungi mushroom wood-fired chicken ₩23,000
• Chicken assorted pancakes ₩25,000
• Fried chicken gizzards with green onion ₩15,000
• Sweet-and-sour chicken neck meat ₩15,000
• Soupy chicken feet ₩15,000
• Dakgaejang ₩13,000
• Chicken doenjang makguksu / mul makguksu ₩13,000 each

At ₩13,000 to ₩25,000, it is a price range where two or three people can order around three dishes and try a variety without too much 부담. Order by QR code; the order goes through first, then payment is made later at the POS.

We ordered the oak-and-neungi mushroom wood-fired chicken, fried chicken gizzards with green onion, and dakgaejang.

Moist wood-fired chicken from the very first bite

The wood-fired chicken, the main event, was nicely browned outside and truly tender within. I was surprised that even the breast meat stayed moist, and there was none of that characteristic chicken odor at all. From the very first bite, I could tell this was a place that really knows how to handle chicken.

Do not miss the rice stuffed inside the chicken, either. My favorite combination was a spoonful of rice topped with herring roe and a piece of chicken breast, all in one bite.

The little pops of herring roe are the key, and a light dip in the doenjang (fermented soybean paste) sauce raises the whole dish another level. The salty roe and savory doenjang come together in a deeply flavorful bite; I think it is the best way to enjoy breast meat, which can so easily turn dry.

Sides that went well with beer and soju

The fried chicken gizzards with green onion had a lovely crunchy-chewy texture, with the fragrance of green onion coming through, and I kept reaching for them. They were not greasy at all—I think they must use good oil! An amazing beer snack!! 🍻

The dakgaejang came generously filled with shredded chicken, and it perfectly filled the need for something brothy between the roast and fried dishes. This was the perfect soju snack.

The banchan (side dishes) were impressive, too. The radish kimchi was crisp like chicken radish but had a refreshing, watery-kimchi-like broth, which made it different. The young-radish kimchi was seasoned just right—we liked it enough to ask for more separately.

This place also had a huge selection of makgeolli (Korean rice wine) for pairing! I wanted to try some makgeolli next time too, haha.

Though it is a chicken restaurant, it even has a noodle-making room inside. They serve makguksu (buckwheat noodles) using buckwheat noodles, so if I get the chance later, I plan to have makguksu next time!

Was the wait worth it?

Gyeryugwan was clearly a place with good reason for the wait. From its solid handling of chicken odor to the finish of the tender roast and even the side dishes, nothing felt like it had been treated casually.

The downside is simply that parking is difficult in the market alley and you have to accept a wait at busy times. It is especially well suited to anyone who loves chicken dishes but has hesitated because of the smell, or who wants a drink amid a market atmosphere. I am already thinking about a return visit to try the makguksu and chicken assorted pancakes next time.