Jongno Seoul Korean BBQ with kimchi fried rice: Tapgol Gongwon

Jongno 3-ga outdoor dining starts with a wait

In this cool, breezy weather, there is no way I can pass up that outdoor street-table vibe. I headed to Tapgol Gongwon Jongno 3-ga Branch, a beloved frozen pork belly spot, because I wanted to properly soak up the bustling alleyway outdoor-dining atmosphere unique to Jongno 3-ga. I got off work early, arrived, and immediately put my name down for the wait.

While waiting, I was so thirsty and hungry that I had draft beer at a nearby Yeokjeon Halmek while I waited. Thirty-three parties ahead of us before 6 p.m. on a Friday evening—seriously? After nearly an hour, we finally got in.

Outdoor tables filling the alley

This is the kind of place where settling into an outdoor table and grilling sizzling meat is absolutely unbeatable. The outdoor tables filling the alley and the boisterous atmosphere around sunset were honestly insane.

People practically come here at opening time just to sit at these vibe-filled street tables rather than indoors. Seeing every seat packed from early evening gave me total confidence that we had come to the right place.

Ordering frozen pork belly, stew, and fried rice

There is quite a range, from frozen pork belly to premium pork neck, sliced duck, and beef brisket. The sides are well stocked too, with stews, fried rice, and steamed egg, and seating is limited to 1 hour 30 minutes on weekends and public holidays! We skipped the deliberation and immediately ordered the signature frozen pork belly, brisket doenjang-jjigae (soybean paste stew), and kimchi fried rice to finish.

The warm familiarity of an old neighborhood alley, plus the lights, made me feel tipsy on the atmosphere before even having a drink. On a Friday evening at this Jongno outdoor spot, there were tons of people in their 20s, older diners, and international visitors too.

A retro frozen pork belly spread and grill

The banchan (Korean side dishes) arrived neatly arranged on a round woven tray that felt just like an old countryside home. Seasoned bean sprouts, spicy shredded radish, scallion salad, assorted dipping sauces for the meat, and even pepper—the essential finishing touch for retro frozen pork belly. Perfect.

The glistening frozen pork belly arrived piled high and neatly stacked in a rustic earthenware bowl. It was not too thin, with just the right thickness for a satisfying chew. These days, frozen pork belly portions can be so skimpy, but this was a decent amount too.

A clean rectangular grill was set on the table with a burner. It was tilted slightly so the fat could drain downward, making it feel like we were fully ready for battle before the meat even hit the grill. Just hearing the grill heat up sent my excitement through the roof.

One bite of peppered pork belly and aged kimchi

Lay the frozen pork belly across the hot grill in tidy rows, then set a long, whole piece of mukeunji (well-aged kimchi) along the bottom. A few shakes of the pepper on the table over the meat is the one rule you absolutely cannot skip when eating frozen pork belly.

The kimchi and pork belly slowly turn golden as the kimchi soaks up the rich pork fat rendered from the samgyeopsal (pork belly)—what a crazy-good visual. Wrap a piece of cooked meat in the tangy grilled kimchi, and every bite is so delicious it makes you gasp.

If you want to enjoy a proper outdoor street-table atmosphere with a cool breeze right in the middle of the city, Tapgol Gongwon near Jongno 3-ga Station is an automatic revisit. For some reason, somaek—soju and beer mixed together—just tastes better outside.

There are only so many days each year when you can enjoy outdoor street tables, you know? It would not be an exaggeration to say I wait for this season. The stone wall and night-view scenery also photograph unbelievably well, so you naturally pull out your camera the moment you sit down.

Finishing with brisket soybean stew and kimchi fried rice

The hearty brisket doenjang-jjigae arrived bubbling away in an earthenware pot. It was generously loaded with zucchini, tofu, and other ingredients, and the meaty broth had an incredible deep, rich flavor. It cut right through the slightly greasy feeling in my mouth with its spicy, savory warmth and instantly made me want a bowl of rice—such a rice thief.

The crowning glory of a pork belly course and the king of K-desserts: kimchi fried rice arrived cooked on foil. The pairing of two sunny-side-up eggs with runny yolks and nutty seaweed flakes was art. This place would not feel like a waste of money even if I came only for its incredible outdoor street-table atmosphere, but the balance of flavors—from the meat and accompanying side dishes to the stew and kimchi fried rice—was so excellent. Next time, I need to come even earlier and join the waitlist! Paid for it myself.