Basement bar in Itaewon: ankimo toast and suji nabe at Kuroiya

Kuroiya was satisfying all around, from the atmosphere to the food! Every dish, from the ankimo to the suji nabe to the grilled mero, had great flavor and texture, but the baguette topped with monkfish liver and caviar was easily the most memorable thing I ate that day. The vibe is quiet enough for real conversation over drinks and snacks, so it'd suit a date, a blind date, or a second-round drinking spot just as well.

Where is Kuroiya, and what are its hours?

• 14-4 Itaewon-ro 16-gil, B1, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, South Korea
• Tue–Sun 17:30 – 02:00
• Mon 17:30 – 01:00
• Parking (available in front of nearby closed shops)

A 5-minute walk from Itaewon Station: inside Kuroiya's basement bar

Kuroiya is about a 5-minute walk from Itaewon Station. Lately a lot of places in Itaewon have been turning basement spaces into atmospheric wine bars or izakayas, and Kuroiya is one of them. Once you step inside, the soft lighting and antique-style interior catch your eye right away — cozier and more atmospheric than I expected, perfect for a drink.

Being underground, the whole place had a cozy, calm feel. The dim lighting paired with the antique interior made it a great spot for quiet conversation over drinks.

The tables are spaced out generously, so you can chat comfortably while enjoying your food and drinks. It struck me as a great place for a date or blind date, but also for catching up quietly with a friend you haven't seen in a while over drinks.

You order via QR code.

The basic side dishes are aged kimchi (묵은지), cucumber salad, tofu with herbs (?), and dried radish.

Ankimo, 20,000 won: monkfish liver and caviar on baguette

This was the most memorable dish I had that day. It's steamed monkfish liver, caviar, granada cheese, and tomato on baguette slices. Monkfish liver dishes can go either way — sometimes they're smelly and fishy — but Kuroiya's version was genuinely amazing.

It melted the moment it hit my mouth, with a rich, savory flavor that made it a perfect drinking snack. This is one you absolutely have to order!!!

The crisp, toasted baguette against the soft, thick monkfish liver was a great textural match. On top of that, the salty umami of the caviar, the richness of the cheese, and the tartness of the tomato all hit at once with each bite. Amazing as a beer snack!

The way it melts almost instantly, layered with that deep, savory richness, was especially good with beer. It's the kind of dish you end up eating slowly, one piece at a time — which somehow makes the drinks go down even easier.

Suji nabe, 20,000 won: beef tendon simmered in bone broth

The suji nabe (₩20,000) nailed it starting with the broth. The warm broth had hearty, chewy beef tendon in it, great for picking through one piece at a time while drinking. The broth wasn't overly seasoned, more deep and rich, so I kept going back for more.

Suji nabe is made by simmering beef tendon in Japanese miso together with bone broth cooked for 4 hours, and the broth had a deep, rich flavor right away. The tendon was chewy yet tender from the long simmer — really good. And of course you need the udon noodles added in — it's basically hangover soup while drinking.

The rich broth combined with the umami of Japanese miso made it feel like it was curing a hangover as you drank, and it went perfectly with sake, tokkuri (sake flask), or soju. It was chewy without being tough, and the more you chewed, the more the savory flavor and rich broth came through — kept me coming back for more.

Grilled mero, 25,000 won: Chilean sea bass with homemade cream cheese

The grilled mero — sea bass neck and stevia tomato topped with homemade cream cheese — had incredibly plump, springy flesh with amazing texture. Just a light touch with the chopsticks and it flaked apart along its grain, yet in the mouth it was chewy and moist at the same time — the texture was almost unbelievably springy.

Adding a tokkuri of sake really set the mood. And maybe because we'd already had quite a few snacks and drinks by then(?), the complimentary 1++ grade Hanwoo beef tartare that came out was also incredibly good. The owner was so kind — best!

Who is Kuroiya right for?

Overall, the atmosphere was relaxing and every snack was delicious, making it a great spot for a leisurely drink. If you're looking for a good Itaewon restaurant, an Itaewon izakaya with a great atmosphere, or a second-round Itaewon bar, I'd recommend Kuroiya! If you want good food, drinks, and atmosphere all in one, definitely give it a visit!!