Gwangjin galbitang after an Achasan hike: Achasan Tong Galbitang

Why I looked for galbitang after hiking Achasan

On weekends, I go hiking or trail running on mountains close to home. The mountain I visit most often is, of course, Achasan. It is a low mountain, but I still recommend it for its wonderful views. I was hungry after hiking Achasan, so on my way down I visited Achasan Tong Galbitang, known as a good restaurant near Achasan Station.

Achasan Tong Galbitang is located before the uphill road leading to Achasan, making it easy to find before or after a hike. When the temperature swings are as big as they have been lately, it is a great place to come for a hot bowl of soup. I visited after a morning hike on Achasan, before lunchtime. Once I had settled in and lunchtime arrived, every table filled up, so I was glad I had come early.

Ordering the restorative special galbitang and using the self-serve bar

There is a kiosk at every table, so ordering is easy. Wanting plenty of meat in my galbitang, I chose the Restorative Special Galbitang. It comes with three beef ribs, so I was excited.

The basic side dishes were kkakdugi (cubed radish kimchi) and vegetables. There is also a self-serve bar where you can bring over kimchi and extra side dishes.

After hiking, perhaps because I had sweated so much, I naturally craved spicy, refreshing kimchi and pickled vegetables. The self-serve bar had a neat, hygienically arranged selection of side dishes that went well with galbitang: kkakdugi, fresh kimchi, peppers, ssamjang (savory dipping paste), and more. I especially loved being able to take as much as I needed without feeling self-conscious.

Deodeok muchim, a perfect match for galbitang

The most special side dish here was deodeok muchim, seasoned deodeok root. It is a rare treat that you do not often see at ordinary galbitang restaurants. The crisp deodeok had its naturally bitter, fragrant flavor deeply seasoned with a spicy-sweet sauce, instantly awakening my appetite. The moment I had a bite of deodeok muchim, which seemed to hold all the energy of the mountain, I thought, “Ah, I really came to a proper restorative-food spot.” The rich, savory galbitang broth with the spicy deodeok muchim was simply fantastic.

Restorative Special Galbitang with three ribs

Finally, the highlight of today’s meal, the Restorative Special Galbitang, arrived. Its bubbling presentation, with steam rising from the earthenware bowl, immediately caught my eye. True to its “special” name, big, thick whole rib bones filled the bowl. There was so much meat that it was almost hard to lift with chopsticks.

First, I tried a spoonful of broth. Like a properly long-simmered stock, it was clear and deeply savory with not a trace of off flavor. Rather than tasting artificially seasoned, it brought together the meat’s natural nuttiness with the subtle aroma of medicinal herbs; the moment I drank it, warmth seemed to soak through my whole body. It gave me that immediate feeling of my hiking-weary body completely melting away and regaining its energy.

The meat on the rib bones had been simmered so thoroughly that I could lightly hold the bone with chopsticks and the meat slipped right off. The well-cooked meat was tender and moist, never dry. Dip it in the house wasabi soy sauce and take a big bite, and mild meat juices burst out with every chew—it was impossible not to be impressed.

After picking at the meat for a while, mixing a bowl of warm rice into the soup, topping it with well-fermented kkakdugi and spicy deodeok muchim, and taking a big spoonful was the ultimate comfort. It was a perfect, hearty meal for completely filling a hungry stomach after hiking.

Finishing with gangjeong and misutgaru dessert

After polishing off a hearty earthenware bowl of galbitang, I would normally finish with a cup of coffee, but Achasan Tong Galbitang has a particularly thoughtful dessert service waiting. It is gangjeong and misutgaru! At the dessert corner on one side of the restaurant after your meal, you can enjoy crisp, nutty gangjeong (puffed-grain candy) and chilled misutgaru (multigrain powder drink) with tiny ice crystals floating in it.

After hot, rich galbitang, a sweet and cold glass of misutgaru was as refreshing and clean-tasting as any fancy dessert.

Having pieces of sweet, crunchy gangjeong alongside it left my mouth feeling nicely refreshed and let me enjoy that pleasant full feeling. This thoughtful, warm consideration from the owner made me even more satisfied.

Achasan is always a familiar, lovely mountain, but I think a hike feels even more complete when you find an excellent restaurant and enjoy good food on the way down. For anyone wanting to replenish the energy they spent sweating on Achasan with a proper restorative meal, or looking near Achasan Station in Gwangjin-gu for truly flavorful, carefully made galbitang, I recommend Achasan Tong Galbitang.