Hwangchil chicken baeksuk after farm work near Haengju Fortress

Baekro (White Dew) and a sweaty morning at the Imjin River farm

It's Baekro (백로), the fifteenth of the 24 solar terms — the name means 'white dew falls.' True to that pretty name, the overnight chill leaves a distinct autumn edge in the morning and evening breeze. You feel the seasons change on the ground first.

I headed out early this morning to a farm along the Imjin River. With the autumn harvest approaching, there were plenty of crops waiting for a hand.

I pulled out the weeds that had grown thick around the soybean patch, and carefully picked the ripe red chili peppers from the field. Then I cleaned up the sweet potato vines sprawling in every direction — I lost all track of time doing it.

Having skipped lunch and sweated it out all day under the blazing sun and wind, by evening a deep hunger and heavy fatigue had settled over my whole body. On days like this, when you've really worked your body hard, nothing sounds better than a deeply nourishing meal to warm you up and restore your energy.

Thirty years of know-how: Guil Baeksuk near Haengju Fortress since 1991

Walking up to the entrance, the number '1991' catches your eye. There's a quiet, trustworthy air about a restaurant that's held its ground in the same spot for over 30 years. Ivy quietly wrapping the red brick exterior and the warm orange lighting added a sense of comfort at the end of an exhausting day.

The interior was just as clean and well-kept, making it a great place to bring parents, family, or someone special. The calm wood-toned interior and spacious table layout make for a comfortable meal.

Brass-bowl side dishes and the hwangchil chicken baeksuk spread

Once seated, I didn't hesitate to order the restaurant's signature nourishing dish — hwangchil chicken baeksuk (2-3 people, ₩59,000).

The side dishes set down right after ordering were neat enough that you could sense the care put into them just by looking. Served in softly gleaming brass bowls, each dish had its own character without being overdone.

• Dongchimi (watery radish kimchi) / mul kimchi: crunchy radish and a cool, refreshing broth that washed away the day's sweat-induced thirst in one go.
• Napa cabbage kimchi & perilla leaf pickles: well-fermented kimchi that pairs perfectly with the chicken, plus deeply savory perilla leaf pickles.
• Seasoned wood ear mushrooms & broccoli: nutty, cleanly seasoned side dishes that whet the appetite.

And finally, the hwangchil chicken baeksuk arrived in a large ceramic pot set over a burner.

The sight alone was impressive. Over the deeply steeped hwangchil medicinal broth sat a lush pile of white wood ear mushrooms, vivid green chives, bright yellow sweet pumpkin, and medicinal roots simmered for a long time with care.

How the hwangchil broth and chicken actually tasted

As the pot bubbled and the earthy herbal aroma spread, my mouth watered on its own. Once the broth had come to a full boil, I took a spoonful first.

The subtle, deep flavor characteristic of the hwangchil tree lingered strongly, yet without a trace of gamey smell — clean and light, it was outstanding. This wasn't the sharp taste of seasoning, but a true, honestly-drawn stock; as it went down my throat, I felt warmth spread through my whole body.

The thoroughly boiled chicken was so tender it pulled apart along the grain with just a touch of chopsticks. The hwangchil broth had soaked deep into the meat, so even just a light dip in salt gave plenty of flavor.

Wrapping the chicken with chives lightly blanched in the broth and the springy white wood ear mushrooms added a playful contrast of soft and crisp textures. The stiffness and fatigue in my shoulders from clearing sweet potato vines and picking chili peppers all day seemed to melt away along with the sweat.

A warm evening that made up for a day's labor

Since I'd worked so hard all day I even forgot lunch, sharing a warm bowl of soup with my wife meant that much more. We traded compliments on each other's hard work and kept sipping the rich hwangchil broth, filling our hearts with warmth.

With the cool Baekro breeze marking the start of autumn, it was a true moment of rest and restoration after a day of sweat.

Like the honest harvest from the Imjin River farm, this hwangchil chicken baeksuk at Guil Baeksuk near Haengju Fortress was simmered with care and years of experience. I'd gladly recommend this gem of a restaurant to anyone in need of deep warmth and an energy boost from a tiring daily grind.

Guil Baeksuk Haengju Fortress Branch information

• Business name: Guil Baeksuk (formerly Sopung)
• Address: 62 Haengju-ro 15beon-gil, Deogyang-gu, Goyang-si, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea
• Signature menu: hwangchil duck baeksuk, hwangchil chicken baeksuk, dak-bokkeumtang, and more