Ilpum hitsumabushi with soju pairing at Kikukawa, Magok, Seoul

When you're worn out from daily life and want to focus entirely on your own meal to recharge, a neat bowl of eel rice is hard to beat. Hitsumabushi, grilled the traditional Nagoya way over charcoal so the outside turns crisp and the inside stays moist, offers a uniquely varied way of eating that goes far beyond just a meal.

I visited Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa One Grove Branch, which opened on the first floor of One Grove Building A in Magok, carrying the legacy of a 90-year-old Japanese eel brand dating back to 1932 that was once listed in the 2019 Michelin Guide. I ordered the signature Yondaime Kikukawa Ilpum Hitsumabushi (₩50,000), topped with an entire top-grade eel grilled whole, paired with a cold bottle of Hallasan soju and a neat otoshi, and took my time enjoying the meal.

A modern space on the first floor of One Grove Building A near Magok Station

The comfort of One Grove blended with private interior touches: the restaurant, right outside Magok Station Exit 2 on the first floor of One Grove Building A, gave off a tidy, sophisticated impression from the exterior.

With high ceilings and generously spaced seating, the atmosphere let you eat calmly without any clutter.

The menu

There were also neatly furnished private rooms, perfectly suited for a tidy business meeting or a family gathering.

As soon as I ordered, I could see through the transparent open kitchen a skilled chef skewering whole eels and grilling and smoking them over charcoal.

Sitting at the bar table looks like it would be fun too!

Ordering the Ilpum Hitsumabushi and Hallasan soju

Ordering Hallasan soju and a neat otoshi spread: since I ordered a cold bottle of Hallasan soju to sip alongside the meal, a neat otoshi was served first in small pretty dishes. It included crisp braised lotus root and pickled eggplant soaked in soft juices, arranged tidily. Not overpowering, just salty and refreshing enough to whet the appetite — a great pairing for cleanly finishing off a cold glass of soju before the eel rice arrives!

Isn't the color combination so pretty?

The Ilpum Hitsumabushi set with a whole eel laid out: when I opened the lid of the elongated dedicated ceramic box, a whole eel, grilled golden brown from head to tail, was covering a bed of fluffy rice.

On the side came a clear suimono (soup), a fresh cabbage salad, chives, fresh wasabi, seaweed flakes, crisp pickled gungchae (a leafy vegetable), tangy yuzu pickled radish, and warm dashi broth, all neatly laid out.

Tasting notes — enjoying hitsumabushi three ways

The harmony of crisp skin, moist flesh, and a not-too-strong traditional tare sauce: scooping up a large piece of eel with the wooden paddle, the skin, quickly grilled over charcoal, was crisp, while the thick flesh melted with juicy tenderness.

The secret tare sauce wasn't overly sweet or salty, leaving behind a subtle smoky note and deep savoriness.

Taking a sip of the slightly bitter, clean Hallasan soju swept away the eel's richness perfectly — the pairing was really great!

For the second way, I piled on sharp wasabi, fragrant chives, and plenty of seaweed flakes to boost the flavor, then sprinkled a little sansho pepper from the table for a sharp, refreshing kick.

And for the last way, I poured warm dashi broth over the remaining rice and eel to make ochazuke. The savory, deep broth soaked into the rice grains, warming and settling my stomach — a finish so satisfying it drew a sigh of admiration with the very last bite!

Overall review

Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa One Grove Branch, which I visited today, is a dignified Magok restaurant that carries the 90-year legacy of Nagoya-style grilled eel without compromise, showing a textbook example of crisp-outside, juicy-inside eel. Beyond the pairing of the visually stunning Ilpum Hitsumabushi, showcasing a whole eel, with clean Hallasan soju, even the little details — like the carefully prepared lotus root and eggplant otoshi served with my drink order — made me feel thoughtfully cared for. If you're looking for a proper energy boost through top-tier eel dishes, or want to enjoy a deeper Japanese dining experience, I highly recommend visiting Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa One Grove Branch.