Magok eel restaurant, four-step hitsumabushi tasting: Kikukawa

I heard that Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa, a 90-year Nagoya-tradition eel restaurant, had opened in One Grove, the newly opened hot spot in Magok, and I was so excited to check it out!

I'm the type to wake up from sleep at the mention of an eel rice bowl, so finding a proper place for a nourishing meal — a real eel restaurant in Magok, Seoul — felt like a big deal. From the tidy atmosphere to the eel's next-level flavor, I couldn't stop being impressed, so let me walk you through the whole visit.

Parking and interior at Kikukawa in Magok One Grove

Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa One Grove Branch is on the first floor of One Grove Building A, so I parked comfortably in the One Grove underground lot before heading up. It's a large complex with plenty of parking space and easy flow, so even less experienced drivers should find it easy to visit.

As soon as I arrived at the entrance, the neat yet modern feel of a traditional Japanese house caught my eye. Stepping inside, a faint charcoal scent and elegant wood interior gave off a calm, cozy vibe.

The tables were spaced generously apart, and with comfortable booth seats as well as private rooms available, this place seemed perfect not just for a date with your partner but also for a parent's birthday gathering or an important business meal.

The staff greeted us warmly and kindly right from the door, so I felt well taken care of even before the meal started.

Hitsumabushi vs. kizami hitsumabushi: what is the difference?

The stars of the day! I ordered Kikukawa's signature hitsumabushi and the easier-to-eat kizami hitsumabushi (sliced eel version) to share. They arrived on neat individual trays, and my heart was already racing before I even lifted the lids.

The classic hitsumabushi bowl

The moment I opened the wooden box lid, a whole, glossy, thick cut of eel appeared and I couldn't help but gasp. Grilled carefully over charcoal with their 90-year secret tare sauce, it had that perfect crisp-outside, melt-in-your-mouth-inside texture.

No tiny bones, no fishy taste at all — just the deep charcoal aroma blending with the eel's clean juiciness. One bite in, and I understood exactly why everyone calls this the eel restaurant to visit in Magok One Grove.

The kizami hitsumabushi bowl with sliced eel

True to its name, kizami (きざみ, meaning 'chopped'), the eel is sliced into thin strips and piled generously over the rice. It's really easy to scoop rice and eel together in one spoonful, which would be great for women who prefer a neat meal or for kids.

The savory special sauce soaked evenly into the rice between the sliced eel strips — every spoonful had an amazing balance of flavor.

How to eat hitsumabushi in four steps

Following the friendly explanation from Kikukawa's staff on how to properly enjoy hitsumabushi, I divided the rice into four portions with the rice paddle and tried it four different ways.

• Step one, enjoy it plain — scoop just the rice and eel into a bowl and savor the charcoal aroma and crisp-tender texture on their own! The rich flavor fills your mouth from the very first bite.
• Step two, add the yakumi condiments — top with finely chopped scallion, fragrant perilla leaf strips, seaweed flakes, and a touch of sharp fresh wasabi! The freshness cuts through the eel's richness and brings the savory flavor alive.
• Step three, warm it up as ochazuke — pour on the warm, deeply savory dashi broth (oshidashi) and eat it soupy and soft! The broth soaks into the rice, leaving you comfortably full and satisfied.
• Step four, finish with your favorite combo — enjoy the last bites with whichever of the three methods suited your taste best!

Personally, the second combo with the sharp fresh wasabi and the third ochazuke combo with the warm, comforting broth were absolutely the best.

Side dishes and the verdict on Kikukawa

Beyond the main eel rice bowl, the side dishes that came with it were also thoughtfully made. The pudding-soft Japanese steamed egg (chawanmushi) was perfect for whetting the appetite before the meal, while the clean miso soup and crunchy pickled vegetables (tsukemono) cut through the eel's richness nicely, so I never got tired of eating throughout the meal.

This place had it all — the deep flavor of authentic Nagoya-style eel, an elegant space, and kind service. If you want to enjoy a refined meal with someone special on a special occasion, be sure to visit Unagi Yondaime Kikukawa One Grove Branch, the eel restaurant in Magok One Grove. I think I'll be coming back here like clockwork whenever I need a boost.