Daegu Korean restaurant for smoky squid: Banwoldang Bujasikdang

A hearty Korean meal near Gwandeokjeong

Not long ago, I visited Banwoldang Bujasikdang, a well-known restaurant in Namsan-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu. Near Gwandeokjeong, this restaurant has held its ground for many years and earned plenty of affection; it is especially known for stir-fried squid, the kind of place everyone in the know already knows about.

I had been stopping by occasionally for years whenever I was downtown and craving Korean food, so this time I headed over for a hearty meal before running errands. It is conveniently a three-minute walk from Exit 20 of Banwoldang Station on Subway Lines 1 and 2, toward the Dongbu Office of Education. There is no separate parking lot, but up to three cars can park in front of the restaurant.

• Mon–Sat 11:00–20:45
• Regularly closed every Sunday
• Last orders: 14:45 and 20:00
• Break time: 15:30–17:00
• Takeout and delivery available

Since waits are common here, chairs had been set out in front of the entrance for people to sit while they waited.

A bustling old-school atmosphere and group seating

Once inside, I spotted walls full of handwriting from famous visitors. Just looking at it made me think, wow, a place with a reputation really is different.

The interior had the cozy feel of a longtime neighborhood restaurant, making it a wonderfully comfortable place to stay. It is not huge, but there were quite a few tables and seats.

We visited after 1 p.m. on a weekend, and just as expected, it was so packed that there were barely any empty tables. Still, because it is near the downtown shopping area and many office workers come for lunch, the food comes out quickly and turnover is good.

Further inside, there was a private, separated group-seating area, making it suitable for company dinners or gatherings.

The self-service bar had fresh lettuce for making ssam (lettuce wraps), along with extra dishes.

When eating out, you cannot help noticing hygiene, and I really liked that the spoons and chopsticks here were individually wrapped like this. Such a clean touch!

Thirty-six years of home-style cooking and quickly served sides

Banwoldang Bujasikdang is a beloved Namsan-dong restaurant in Jung-gu, Daegu, carrying on a mother's cooking for the long span of 36 years. The menu was not extensive—hot-plate seokgalbi, stir-fried pork, oje bokkeum, and more—but that actually made it feel as though the restaurant was focused on its mains.

As soon as we sat down, the banchan (Korean side dishes) appeared in no time. First up was my favorite, fried burdock: crisp batter topped with a sweet sauce. It almost felt like eating dakgangjeong (sweet crispy chicken), and it was so delicious that I wanted to know their recipe.

The lightly seasoned bean-sprout salad was great on its own or mixed into the sauce—an absolutely perfect pairing.

Pickled onions and seasoned shredded radish were also neatly set out.

The seasoned seaweed stems were also clean-tasting and mild, like something my mom might have made at home, so I kept reaching for them.

Fire-grilled stir-fried squid at the standard spice level

We are more seafood people than meat people, so we ordered two servings of fire-grilled stir-fried squid.

There are two spice levels to choose from. I tend to prefer spicy food, but when I am sharing with others, I choose the standard level; it was neither too spicy nor bland, just nicely balanced.

The sauce looked deeply seasoned, so I expected it to be salty, but it was just right. The squid was moist and tender too, practically melting in my mouth.

It was stir-fried in the restaurant's own special sauce with hardly any sweetness and a subtle smoky flavor. It was the kind of taste that would not let me put down my chopsticks, so I could understand why so many people seek it out in Namsan-dong, Daegu.

Scoop up a big spoonful of rice and top it with a piece of squid, and there is no way you will not make a whole bowl disappear in a flash.

Mixing the bean sprouts that came with the meal into the special sauce gave me another delicious style of side dish.

The hot country-style cheonggukjang doenjang-jjigae (fermented soybean paste stew) served by default was savory and refreshing, making it a perfect match for the spicy food.

For a hearty meal near Gwandeokjeong, Banwoldang Bujasikdang was just the place to go when I wanted Korean food with the confidence and depth of long experience in Namsan-dong, Jung-gu, Daegu.