Hwangnidan-gil walnut pastry café snack with a toddler: Buja Hodu

Yesterday I went on an outing to Gyeongju with Ro-eun. It's not often I make time to go all the way to Gyeongju, so it felt like a waste to just come back without stopping for something tasty on Hwangnidan-gil.

That's where Buja Hodu comes in!

I heard a lot of people buy walnut pastries (hodu-gwaja) here as a Gyeongju souvenir. Let me walk you through my visit and taste review :)

What kind of place is Buja Hodu on Hwangnidan-gil in Gyeongju?

Buja Hodu is near Hwangnidan-gil, so it's an easy stop while sightseeing. It's a walnut pastry specialty shop, but it's not just a place selling the basic red bean version.

There's low-sugar red bean, pea cream cheese, matcha, almond praline, and more, so I liked that you can pick based on your taste.

If you're like me and can't decide which flavor to pick, going for a mix set with several flavors seems like a good idea too.

100% Korean rice dough with one whole walnut inside

There was one detail from the explanation at Buja Hodu that really caught my eye.

It's that they use 100% domestic rice dough, and each pastry has one whole walnut inside. Instead of chopped-up bits, a whole walnut goes in, so you really get that nutty crunch when you bite in.

And the red bean filling is made low-sugar too. Walnut pastries usually feel like a sweet snack first, but this toned-down sweetness made it great to pair with coffee.

Are Buja Hodu's walnut pastries a good snack for a toddler?

Chatting with the owner, I learned a lot of people buy these as snacks for kids. She said moms of babies starting solids come to buy them often. Of course, since every baby's eating stage and allergies differ, it's worth checking what's right for your child's age...

But it seemed like a good option for anyone traveling in Gyeongju with a little one and looking for a snack to bring along.

Since I have a baby myself, I tend to look for snacks like this instead of anything too sweet or heavily flavored when traveling. Our Ro-eun ate it up happily too.

What's in the 24-piece mix at Buja Hodu?

What I ordered was the 24-piece mix.

It's nice for sharing with family since you get a bit of every flavor, and there's a certain fun in picking one at a time.

Low-sugar red bean

This is the most classic flavor, the red bean version.

The typical sweet red bean filling of walnut pastries combined with the nuttiness of the whole walnut made for a familiar yet easy-to-eat flavor. It went especially well with coffee.

Pea cream cheese

A completely different vibe from the red bean. The nutty, mild flavor of pea combines with cream cheese for a soft, savory combination.

Worth trying if you usually like more unusual walnut pastry flavors! Personally, this was my favorite.

Matcha

This one has that subtle matcha bitterness. It's a more grown-up flavor compared to the purely sweet versions, so it paired well with coffee. If you like matcha, this one should suit your taste.

The americano that comes with the walnut pastries

I also had an americano at Buja Hodu, and the coffee here turned out to be a bit special. The owner explained it's blended and roasted directly by a coffee craftsman in Gyeongju.

There are apparently only about two places in Gyeongju where you can drink this coffee, and Buja Hodu is one of them. The combination of walnut pastry and coffee really worked. Eating the sweet, nutty pastry and then taking a sip of americano felt refreshing and clean, so I kept reaching for more.

Buja Hodu also serves other menu items like affogato besides americano, so it seems like a nice spot to rest with a cup of coffee while exploring Hwangnidan-gil.

Resting at Buja Hodu's outdoor tables

The shop has a few outdoor tables. When I visited, the weather was nice, so I sat outside and rested for a bit with my coffee.

Walking around Hwangnidan-gil for a while can quietly tire your legs out, so eating a walnut pastry and having coffee was a nice way to rest for a moment. And honestly, what stuck with me most wasn't even the walnut pastry — it was the owner. haha

The owner said wild grapes (meoru-podo) were in season and tasty, and personally handed me some.

Getting grapes I never expected was so touching... 🥹 The owner just has such a warm impression. The way she spoke, her expression, everything about her put me in a good mood. Even though it was my first visit, it didn't feel awkward at all — she treated me comfortably, like a mom would, and it genuinely lifted my mood.

I think it's this kind of warm atmosphere that brings people back for a second visit.

A Gyeongju souvenir that works as a holiday gift

With the holidays coming up, this could be a good option for anyone deciding on a gift. Like what I bought, you can get a 24-piece mix in a box, and for holiday gifts, bojagi (wrapping cloth) packaging is also available.

Wrapped nicely in bojagi, it feels less like a regular snack and more like an upscale gift set. It's also practical for anyone traveling in Gyeongju looking for a souvenir for parents or friends, since it's a dessert they can actually eat.

It's a good spot for a tasty dessert with coffee on Hwangnidan-gil, and also good for a Gyeongju souvenir gift set for family or friends after your trip. If you want to try several flavors at once, I'd recommend the 24-piece mix like I got.

If you're looking for a special treat you can actually eat instead of the usual Gyeongju souvenirs, stop by Buja Hodu, a dessert spot on Hwangnidan-gil in Gyeongju :)