Three naengmyeon names tasted in one visit: Song Giwon, a Jinju

Song Giwon Jinju Naengmyeon, to the main branch

If you ask anyone to name a top naengmyeon (cold noodles) restaurant in Jinju, Song Giwon Jinju Naengmyeon always comes up. There are two locations in Jinju — a main branch and a directly-run branch — and we went to the main branch. Being famous, it's always packed whenever we come. Even though we timed this visit slightly outside lunch hour, customers kept streaming in nonstop.

Sunjo 1800, water naengmyeon

This is the Sunjo1800 water naengmyeon, where you can really taste the deep flavor of the seafood broth that's the heart of Jinju naengmyeon. I'm normally a spicy naengmyeon person, but after eating my way through Jinju naengmyeon, I realized you really have to try the water version to fully feel the savory depth and refreshing coolness of the broth. It's especially great in summer for drinking the cold broth, and perfect for clearing your head after a night of drinking.

The self-made noodles have a high buckwheat content but stay wonderfully chewy, and the bowl is generously topped with egg-battered pan-fried beef (yukjeon) and crisp, tangy pickled radish — texture, nutrition, and flavor all covered. The clear, springy, yet soft noodles make your mouth water just looking at them. The broth is brewed from Korean beef with seafood broth mixed in, an explosively savory combination that really hits the spot. Plenty of other regions have their own naengmyeon, but what sets Jinju naengmyeon apart is exactly this seafood broth — I think that's why the water naengmyeon is so popular here.

This felt like the textbook definition of naengmyeon — not just the flavor of the self-made noodles but exactly how long they were boiled, cooked to just the right point. Springy and chewy yet soft, without going mushy. It's these kinds of details that keep this place firmly at the top of Jinju's naengmyeon scene. Pyongyang-style naengmyeon is trendy these days, but honestly I think I prefer Jinju naengmyeon. With both beef broth and seafood broth in the mix, it can't not be delicious.

Song Giwon 1997, mixed naengmyeon

This mixed naengmyeon has the charm of both water naengmyeon and spicy naengmyeon. Whenever I can't decide between the two, I go for the mixed version. It comes with a shallow pool of broth and plenty of seasoning.

Once the broth mixes with the seasoning, it turns into something like a thin, rich seasoning sauce.

Eating it with the more intensely flavored mixed naengmyeon somehow makes the yukjeon topping taste even better. This topping might seem like a small detail, but it's actually the key point of this Jinju naengmyeon restaurant. Whenever you can't decide between water and spicy naengmyeon, ordering the mixed version solves the whole dilemma.

Nongae 1593, spicy naengmyeon

I've always been a spicy naengmyeon person from way back. The tangy-sweet seasoning is the whole point of spicy naengmyeon, and even in the seasoning here you could sense the tradition behind it.

It comes generously topped with a boiled egg and yukjeon. It's clearly not one of Jinju's top naengmyeon restaurants for nothing. Every table has a nice-quality vinegar you can add to your noodles. Even the vinegar is treated with serious care, which makes everything feel thoughtfully made and trustworthy. It tastes noticeably different from the store-bought stuff.

Three naengmyeon, three different names

At this Jinju naengmyeon restaurant, you can order three different versions depending on your taste. Their names are:

• Water naengmyeon = Sunjo1800
• Mixed naengmyeon = Song Giwon1997
• Spicy naengmyeon = Nongae1593

There's something stylish about that.

This is a Jinju naengmyeon restaurant I pass by often on the way to Jinju City Yeonam Library. It's a hotspot that's constantly busy, especially in the hot summer. There are many good naengmyeon restaurants in Jinju, but a lot of people rank this one as their top pick. Definitely worth a visit.