Suwon Vietnamese restaurant for lemongrass bun bo Hue: Madam Hao

I was near Ajou University and looking around thinking, What should we eat? Then I spotted a pho place called Madam Hao. My wife loves Vietnamese food, and she said the exterior made it look like it would be good. It amazes me what she bases these predictions on.

At Madam Hao, the bun cha arrives looking as if it has been delivered straight from Vietnam, which makes it even more fun to see.

Madam Hao location and space

A Coupang box in this exotically decorated, wood-toned space, haha. The entrance is unusual enough to feel like you are on an overseas trip, so photos would probably turn out nicely here too. There is parking space to the right of the restaurant, so you can park there.

Tables run alongside one another in a long layout, and there is another space farther inside. There were all kinds of diners, from people eating alone in the evening to couples and groups. Since it is near Ajou University, students seemed to make up the largest group.

There are plenty of tables in the back too, so running out of seats should not be a problem. Also, Vietnamese food tends to have quick table turnover, so even if there is a wait, it should not be long.

Vietnam is a long country stretching north to south, so there are regional differences. Madam Hao serves Hanoi-style food—in other words, northern Vietnamese style.

A sign says to ask the staff if you need kimchi or danmuji (pickled yellow radish), but they brought both from the start^^.

Menu and complimentary rice crackers

• Beef brisket pho ₩11,000
• Pad thai ₩12,000
• Banh mi ₩10,000
• Bun cha ₩13,000

Looking at the menu, I thought it would be great if the bun cha came out like this—and I was surprised that it arrived exactly like the photo on the cover.

Bars often serve a basic snack, but this was my first time getting rice crackers at a restaurant! Seeing that the hours run until 3 AM rather than 9 or 10 PM, it seems like plenty of people come by for a drink too.

Bun cha in a basket with aromatic herbs

Bun cha in what looks like a carrier-shaped basket? Does not it look as if a snack meal has arrived from the Korean countryside? I have had bun cha several times, but served like this, it feels like I am trying a traditional Vietnamese dish for the first time.

The noodles were steaming hot, yet amazingly they were not clumped together. They were about the thickness of medium wheat noodles, thicker than somyeon (thin wheat noodles).

A gentle aroma rose from the pork ribs, well-marinated and grilled over charcoal. At that point, I was already sure this would be good.

I put a little on my small plate. In Vietnam, they use aromatic herbs instead of cilantro, and Madam Hao also serves no cilantro, instead giving you herbs with a strong mint aroma. Since the restaurant is run by Vietnamese people, it is similar to the local style. Add a suitable amount of sweet-and-sour nuoc mam (Vietnamese fish sauce) and mix it well before eating. Red chili and crushed garlic really bring out the savory depth, followed by a subtle touch of heat.

These are the herbs in question. Even my wife, who likes cilantro, finds these herbs a little difficult, but I was fine with them. Their strong herbal mint scent is distinctive, and it feels as though they cool and freshen up your mouth! The meat kept its chewy texture while the sweet marinade and fragrant charcoal flavor came together so well that I wished I could order extra meat by itself.

Tangy, peppery bun bo Hue

Bun bo Hue, ₩12,000. Hue is the name of a region in north-central Vietnam; bun refers to round rice noodles, while bo means beef. So bun bo Hue is a beef rice-noodle soup that originated in Hue.

• Noodles: thinner than udon but thicker and rounder than typical rice noodles
• Broth: made by simmering beef and pork bones, then adding lemongrass and chili oil, giving it a flavor similar to tom yum goong

At a glance, it does look like a meaty jjamppong (spicy seafood noodle soup). But if you expect that flavor, you will be way off! There was quite a bit of thinly sliced beef. I wrapped it around the noodles and also shredded it to eat like jangjorim (soy-braised beef), and every piece was tender to chew, never tough, which was satisfying.

The broth is not simply spicy-hot; it is tangy and peppery, with a real Southeast Asian character. Think of it as a milder tom yum goong in both aroma and taste, though people who do not like the scent of lemongrass may be better off ordering regular pho.

A friend who lived in Vietnam once told me that if I went to Hanoi, I absolutely had to try fish-cake pho because it was really delicious. This bowl had two kinds of fish cake: the one on the left tasted similar to ham, while the one on the right was the fish-based kind we know. Looking at the soft interior and irregular shapes, it seemed like they might make the fish cakes themselves too.

I piled in the herbs and tried the rice noodles, and it really felt as though I had come to Vietnam. Just changing the herbs makes such a huge difference in flavor—why do other places not serve them? If you love Vietnamese food and want a taste that feels local, Madam Hao, a great pho spot near Ajou University, should satisfy you.

While we were eating, they were making cha gio (Vietnamese fried spring rolls) by hand too. Seeing them individually wrap minced meat in rice paper showed how carefully they make every dish. Next time, I need to come back for banh mi and cha gio. Madam Hao near Ajou University is the kind of place where I want to work through every menu item in order. The owner and staff are all Vietnamese, very kind, and communication is not a problem at all.