Gwacheon seaweed soup restaurant after a Gwanaksan hike: Haenon Miyeok

A Gwacheon seaweed soup restaurant found coming down from Gwanaksan

I climbed Gwanaksan for the first time in a while and came down toward Gwacheon Hyanggyo. Walking from the mountain toward Gwacheon Station to catch the subway, my stomach suddenly started growling. After the hike I was starving, so I quickly searched for nearby restaurants. That's when I spotted Haenon Miyeok Gwacheon Direct Branch, a Korean restaurant in Gwacheon. Seaweed soup seemed like a nice, easy meal, so I decided to head straight over.

Haenon Miyeok Gwacheon Direct Branch, a Korean restaurant in Munwon-dong, Gwacheon, apparently serves set meals centered on seaweed soup (miyeokguk). I'd stumbled onto it right after a Gwanaksan hike I hadn't done in a long time — let's see what kind of meal I ended up with.

How to reach Haenon Miyeok Gwacheon Direct Branch: drive times

• 1 minute from the Cheonggyesan Course 3 entrance
• 2 minutes from Government Complex Gwacheon Station Exit 2
• 2 minutes from Gwacheon Station Exit 6
• 2 minutes from Gwacheon Hyanggyo

On the way from Gwacheon Station to the seaweed soup restaurant, gentle classical music was playing through the underpass beneath the railway. My body was a bit tired from the Gwanaksan hike, but walking to the music made me feel a lot more relaxed. According to a sign, the music is part of a crime-prevention environmental design meant to make the space feel safer and more pleasant. It was only a short walk, but I really appreciated that small touch.

The road leading to Haenon Miyeok Gwacheon Direct Branch, a spot in Munwon-dong, Gwacheon good for family gatherings, is a genuinely romantic little path. On the right there's even a cluster of mugunghwa (rose of Sharon, Korea's national flower), which made the walk more enjoyable.

"This is not seaweed soup simmered in advance and ladled out"

A line printed on the outside wall of the restaurant caught my eye.

This isn't seaweed soup that's been simmered ahead of time and ladled out.

Haenon Miyeok, which started in Busan in 2015, apparently specializes in seaweed soup set meals. Seeing the explanation that each bowl is cooked to order gave me a real sense of pride in the food. Having just come from a Gwanaksan hike, I was even more excited for a warm bowl of soup.

Approaching the entrance, the clean, modern exterior stood out. A sign noted that this Gwacheon branch is the brand's fifth directly operated location. After slowly reading through the menu and store description, I went inside looking forward to a warm bowl of seaweed soup.

Once through the door, phrases introducing Haenon Miyeok and a neat list of various seaweed soup menu items greeted me. With options like flounder, scallop, beef, mussel, dried pollack, Tongyeong oyster, and sea urchin roe, I found myself pausing to decide which soup to order.

Inside Haenon Miyeok: mood, seating and baby chairs

Stepping inside, a calm yet clean interior came into view first. The high ceilings and soft lighting made the space feel spacious and relaxed.

What really stood out were the large black-and-white photographs covering the walls — fishermen gathering seafood in rough seas and farmers tending their crops with care. I found myself staring at them for quite a while. They seemed to express the natural ingredients and effort that go into the food, and fit the atmosphere of Haenon Miyeok well.

The tables were spaced generously, which felt comfortable, and each table had a tablet ordering system so I could browse the menu and order at my own pace.

Disposable aprons and baby chairs were also ready, so it looked like a comfortable place for families to eat as well.

Why order the Haesin (sea god) seaweed soup set?

Looking over the menu, there really were a lot of seaweed soup varieties — flounder, abalone, scallop, beef, mussel, dried pollack, and even sea urchin roe and abalone-sea urchin roe seaweed soup. The Haesin (海神, sea god) seaweed soup set in particular caught my eye. Among all the options, I ordered the Haesin seaweed soup set that day. Having just come down from Gwanaksan, I wanted something hearty, so I picked the seafood-loaded option.

Once seated, I noticed a few notices printed on the table — a warning that the stone pot comes out hot, along with a note that pregnant guests or birthday guests receive one piece of abalone as a service item.

The chopsticks and spoon came individually wrapped in paper, and tongs, scissors, and a ladle were neatly laid out on the table. Since the soup is loaded with seafood, having tongs and scissors on hand looked genuinely useful.

The basic banchan and tot-bap

After a short wait, the basic side dishes started arriving one by one. Scallop salad, fried eggplant, and a salad were plated neatly and looked appetizing. Japchae (stir-fried glass noodles) and several other banchan came together as well. Not especially flashy, but a clean, well-put-together spread for a single meal — I liked it.

The rice was no ordinary rice either — tot-bap, studded with tot (a type of seaweed) that carries a subtle sea aroma, came alongside the soup. The little bursts of texture with every bite paired amazingly well when mixed into the rich seaweed soup broth. And if you run out of rice, no worries — just ask a staff member and they'll kindly bring you more tot-bap, so you can enjoy a hearty, satisfying meal down to the very last spoonful.

Haesin seaweed soup stone pot with abalone, scallop and octopus

At last, the main seaweed soup arrived, bubbling away in a large stone pot! Simmered over an open flame, the deep, rich broth's aroma really got my appetite going.

Stirring the broth gently with my spoon revealed big, fresh abalone, plump scallops, and chunky octopus — the seafood was packed in generously. The refreshing brininess and deep flavor of the seafood came together in one bite for a genuinely restorative bowl.

Apparently every bowl is brewed to order, as richly as a medicinal tonic. Everything at Haenon Miyeok is also cooked in-house at each store, which gave me a real sense of care put into every dish.

What is on the self-serve banchan bar?

If the side dishes ran low during the meal, I could just grab more from the self-serve bar. Basics like napa cabbage kimchi, yeolmu (young radish) kimchi, mung bean jelly salad, and gungchae namul, plus cockle salad, were all on hand. Warm japchae and fried eggplant were there too, which made picking out extra banchan fun.

The japchae and fried eggplant in particular tasted even better warm. There was also a note asking guests to take only what they'd eat, which I appreciated as a way to cut down on food waste.

Haenon Miyeok Gwacheon Direct Branch hours and parking

• Hours: Daily 11:00-21:00
• Break time: Mon-Fri 15:00-17:00
• Parking: Available in the building in front of the restaurant
• Reservations: Available via Naver Reservations

On my way out after the meal, I noticed black rice nurungji (scorched rice) chips for sale by the counter. They looked like a nutty, crispy snack worth taking home. Between the warm Haesin seaweed soup, the tidy banchan, and the self-serve bar, I left completely full after being famished from the Gwanaksan hike. It was a place I stumbled onto by chance, but I walked away from Haenon Miyeok Gwacheon Direct Branch with a genuinely satisfying meal.